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The First Corridor
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acme Top Rope Wall S,TR 
Agua Negro S 
Before The Storm T,S 
Bilbo Surfs Galveston S 
Brand X Top Rope Wall TR 
Itsy Bitsy Spider (climbed up the water spout) S 
Leather & Lace  S 
Middle Earth T 
Pain at the Pump S 
Pick Pocket  T 
Pocket Change S 
Rise and Shine S 
Sophie's Choice S 
Spider's Line S 
Unknown 5.11a (a.k.a. the Booty Route) S 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Earth 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 170'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,312
Submitted By: Benjamin Chapman on Jul 10, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Climber on the steep upper headwall of "Middle Ear...

Description 

"Middle Earth" begins downhill (left) of "Agua Negro" at the narrowest portion of The Canyon. Start climbing just right of and below a huge coarse grained block or inclusion. Two bolts lead past the inclusion to a lower angled apron. Continue up as the wall steepens to a headwall below a large depression. clip the bolt and climb into the depression. Move left from the depression around the left side of a very large block to a chain anchor with two bolts. Continue up the steep upper headwall on pockets and knobs past 5 more bolts. While it is possible to link the climb as one long pitch it maybe necessary to use long runners down low or back clean to reduce rope drag. As of July 2014 there are chains with screw links in order to rappel the route in two rappels with a 60 meter rope.


Location 

This route is on the east wall of The Canyon and originates at the narrowest portion of The Canyon, 40 feet left (north) of "Aqua Negro."


Protection 

P1 - 9 bolts & 2-bolt anchor with chain, P2 - 5 bolts, shares an anchor with "Tethys," 3 bolts with chains.



Photos of Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
A climber rappelling down the line of "Middle Earth."
A climber rappelling down the line of "Middle Eart...
A recently replaced bolt and hanger from "Middle Earth." Many of the hangers were spinners and the bolts wouldn't tighten down properly.
A recently replaced bolt and hanger from "Middle E...
Upon reflection, I think this is probably Pocket Change.  Middle Earth would be the next route to the left.  5.8+ sounds about right.
Upon reflection, I think this is probably Pocket C...
P1 anchor. The route is much nicer when done as one long pitch, to the summit, skipping this anchor.
P1 anchor. The route is much nicer when done as on...
Climber in black, on "Middle Earth." the climber in the foreground, is on "Pick Pocket."
Climber in black, on "Middle Earth." the climber i...
P2 anchor shared with Tethys.
P2 anchor shared with Tethys.
Comments on Middle Earth Add Comment
Show which comments
By steple
Jul 26, 2011

This route is listed as trad, but according to the description it's a sport climb.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Sep 9, 2011

The bolts are more widely spaced than most "sport" routes and might be considered run out. "Picante" (5.12) at Suicide Rock is listed as "trad" by Darrell Hensel, yet it is a sporty face, protected by 5 bolts. In fact, most of the face routes at Suicide Rock and Joshua Tree are classified as trad. If you're expecting closely spaced bolts at Texas Canyon you may be in over your head. All you need is draws.

By Guy Keesee
From: Moorpark, CA
Nov 25, 2011

""While this route is fairly new, no information is available regarding the details of the FA or its original name.


So Gentle Ben, How nice of you to rate it and name it for all of US. Thank You for your service.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Nov 28, 2011

Always eager to help. Certainly, attaching a name and a rating to the route helps others identify it and might save someone from an unfortunate accident or epic. Withholding the name and rating benefits few and may put inexperienced climbers in jeopardy. As Spider Savage has indicated throughout this site, if you have some insight regarding the name, rating, FA party, date, etc. that you or anyone else would like to share...please do.

By NancyM
From: Acton, California
Jun 22, 2013

Thanks for the beta, Ben. I had wanted to lead this one, but after reading the info here I'm going to toprope a few more times to get familiar with the bolt placment. As a Lord of the Rings fan, I don't mind that you named it Middle Earth :) Until I learn to drill and folt my own routes, I'm happy to have the names and beta on the existing ones!

By BAd
Dec 7, 2013

This is a fun, full pitch and not too hard. Whenever things get a little sketchy, try a little move to the left. Persist and you'll get to a good stance. Fun!

Looks like I did Pocket Change. Doh! Middle Earth is to the left. I've yet to do it.

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Apr 14, 2014

BAd.....you got it right, "Middle Earth" on the left and "Pick Pocket" on the right.
You're right on regarding the beta as well. When in doubt, especially at each of the large inclusions or blocks, go left.