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 ADVANCED
Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Earth  


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Page Views: 4,289
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
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  • Description 

    From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.

    Getting There 

    Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 5.1 miles from here

    10 Total Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
    The Cave Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   
    For Short People Only   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
    In Your Head   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   
    Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   
    Browse More Classics in Middle Earth

    Featured Route For Middle Earth
    In your head set up on the green rope.

    In Your Head 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
    The crux is protecting and pulling the roof. This is a three move high ball boulder problem, which if done on lead is uber heady because the pro below the roof that you can get isn't that good.Would not recommend this route for newer trad leaders....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

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