From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.
Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
The Cave Route 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 55'
For Short People Only 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
A Flake Called Lee 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Seven Wishes 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
In Your Head 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Butterfingers 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR, 30'
Bloodguard 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'
Featured Route For Middle Earth
The Cave Route 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch....[more] Browse More Classics in MD