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Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Flake Called Lee T,TR 
Bloodguard T,TR 
Butterfingers T,TR 
Cave Route, The T 
For Short People Only T,TR 
Go Ballistic T,TR 
I Am a Cam TR 
In Your Head T 
Rhythm Roof TR 
Seven Wishes T,TR 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Earth 


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Page Views: 3,967
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
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  • Description 

    From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.


    Getting There 

    Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.


    Climbing Season


    10 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
    The Cave Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   
    For Short People Only   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
    In Your Head   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   
    Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   
    Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   
    Browse More Classics in Middle Earth

    Featured Route For Middle Earth
    Base of The Cave Route

    The Cave Route 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
    The Cave Route is fun and can get pretty tight near the top. Climbing with a pack is not the best idea. The crux is certainly at the top of the cave where you have to squeeze your way out. There is a good belay anchor off a tree trunk to belay your partner up if needed. The remainder of the climb is class 4. Roping up is opitional for the half ass second pitch....[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

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