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Middle Earth

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Flake Called Lee 
Bloodguard 
Butterfingers 
Cave Route, The 
For Short People Only 
Go Ballistic 
I Am a Cam 
In Your Head 
Rhythm Roof 
Seven Wishes 
Unsorted Routes:

Middle Earth 


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Page Views: 3,145
Administrators: Frances Fierst, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Frank T on Mar 28, 2009
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  • Description 

    From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.


    Getting There 

    Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.


    10 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
    The Cave Route   5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c     Trad, 2 pitches, 55'   
    For Short People Only   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    A Flake Called Lee   5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Seven Wishes   5.6 4c 14 V S 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
    Butterfingers   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 30'   
    Bloodguard   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'   
    Browse More Classics in Middle Earth

    Featured Route For Middle Earth
    Bloodguard

    Bloodguard 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
    Start at the center of a blank face, move up to a quartz vein then move left to a broken crack system. Hand traverse back right at the ledge, then move up through a fun series of small roofs. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in MD

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