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From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.
Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
The Cave Route 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 55'
For Short People Only 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
A Flake Called Lee 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Seven Wishes 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Butterfingers 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 30'
Bloodguard 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'
Featured Route For Middle Earth
Bloodguard 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
Start at the center of a blank face, move up to a quartz vein then move left to a broken crack system. Hand traverse back right at the ledge, then move up through a fun series of small roofs. ...[more] Browse More Classics in MD