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From the green trail this is the first wall you come to on your right. at 120 feet of broken rock cliff that one can find climbs upwards of 50 feet (most average 30 to 40 though). This area is prone to the ravens closure, as they like to nest on Butterfingers.
Once at the top parking lot, walk down to the trail head (near the building) for the green trail, follow this up a few hundred yards and look off into the woods to your right. You can't miss it.
10 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
The Cave Route 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c Trad, 2 pitches, 55'
For Short People Only 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
A Flake Called Lee 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Seven Wishes 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Butterfingers 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, TR, 30'
Bloodguard 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a R Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'
Featured Route For Middle Earth
In Your Head 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b MD : Sugarloaf Mountain : Middle Earth
The crux is protecting and pulling the roof. This is a three move high ball boulder problem, which if done on lead is uber heady because the pro below the roof that you can get isn't that good.Would not recommend this route for newer trad leaders....[more] Browse More Classics in MD