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Spring and Fall. Summer is OK if you climb the far left side in the alcove until 2-3 pm. Mostly sport with a few gear routes. Routes from 5.8 through 5.12+. The alcove holds several overhanging sport routes a few of which are worth the visit. The rest of the crag has longer, less than vertical to vertical climbing and some of these are very good if you prefer these types of routes.
Follow EFR's description in the guidebook but the pullout is a little further up the road and on the left after the new road construction. The trail starts at the upper end of this new pullout.
21 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Middle Earth 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 155'
Silmarillion 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b Sport, 150'
Pull Me Up 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Hobbitual Offender 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
The Planet Eater 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
The Breeze 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a Sport, 40'
Delirious 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 60'
War Of The Worlds 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Fireball 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Irresistable 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 70'
The Bump 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Infectious 5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c Sport
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