Spring and Fall. Summer is OK if you climb the far left side in the alcove until 2-3 pm. Mostly sport with a few gear routes. Routes from 5.8 through 5.12+. The alcove holds several overhanging sport routes a few of which are worth the visit. The rest of the crag has longer, less than vertical to vertical climbing and some of these are very good if you prefer these types of routes.
Follow EFR's description in the guidebook but the pullout is a little further up the road and on the left after the new road construction. The trail starts at the upper end of this new pullout.
22 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Pull Me Up 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 120'
Delirious 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 60'
Premonition 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Fireball 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
The Bump 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Middle Earth
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Aleix fishing for feet on War of the Worlds, 5.12 ...
BETA PHOTO: From the trail as it turns back to the south to re...
Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of th...
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Batesville, AR
May 14, 2007
There are several(at least 2) bolts missing hangers left of "The Breeze". I think the route left of the breeze has all of its hard ware but the two left of that are missing some stuff. Maybe more, I am not sure.
From: Casa do Cacete
Sep 12, 2007
Would it be faster to approach Middle Earth via the Lizard Rock area?
Sep 12, 2007
Christian....the short answer is no...not faster. But it's not that much longer either.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 19, 2010
The Hendrixson Bailing Challenge: 3 Routes in 1 Day.
There was a bit of confusion as new routes have been added since SLII was published. "Bobbin For Hobbits" and "Elfin Warrior" precede "Infectious", the "Open Project" in the guidebook. Hence "Infectious" is not "Delirious"; furthermore, neither "The Gift" nor "The Bump" are "The Breeze".
"The Gift" is still missing at least the second bolt. There appeared to be chalk on the route, however, so maybe it is unnecessary.
The trail, while still easily identifiable, could use a little maintenance.
May 15, 2011
Adam Block is a bad@#&! Yesterday he sent War of the Worlds and The Bump. The Bump went 2nd go after not getting on it for several years.
Not bad for a day of climbing. Last time I take him to work my project...
Good job Adam!
From: Denver, CO
Apr 18, 2012
The "Getting there" section of most areas in AZ could use a little help. For middle earth, try this:
After mp15 you will pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right, the very next pullout (on your left) is for Middle Earth and The Helmet (just below 2 blocky towers). Start at the upper end of the pullout and walk up the gully. Just before you reach the crest cairns will either continue straight up (Helmet) or go right (middle earth). Follow right and sidehill (uphill to right) above a large slab area then circle back around left to arrive at the climber's left side of the crag.