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DescriptionSpring and Fall. Summer is OK if you climb the far left side in the alcove until 2-3 pm. Mostly sport with a few gear routes. Routes from 5.8 through 5.12+. The alcove holds several overhanging sport routes a few of which are worth the visit. The rest of the crag has longer, less than vertical to vertical climbing and some of these are very good if you prefer these types of routes. Getting ThereFollow EFR's description in the guidebook but the pullout is a little further up the road and on the left after the new road construction. The trail starts at the upper end of this new pullout. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Silmarillion 5.10 Sport, 150 feet
Middle Earth 5.10 Sport, 155 feet
Pull Me Up 5.10+ Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet
Grand Opening 5.11a Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet
The Planet Eater 5.11 Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet
The Breeze 5.11c Sport, 40 feet
Delirious 5.12a Sport, 60 feet
Fireball 5.12b Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet
Irresistable 5.12b Sport, 70 feet
Elfin Warrior 5.12 Sport, 60 feet
Infectious 5.13 Sport
Featured Route For Middle Earth
The Planet Eater 5.11 AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Middle Earth
Slabby technical start to a lieback to jugs as it gets steeper. ...[more] Browse More Classics in AZ
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