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Middle Earth
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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bobbin' for Hobbits 
Breeze, The 
Bump, The 
Delirious 
Earth Angel 
Elfin Warrior 
Fireball 
Grand Opening 
Hobbitual Offender 
Infectious 
Irresistable 
Just a Fantasy 
Middle Earth 
Planet Eater, The 
Pull Me Up 
Red Hot 
S'Blended 
Silmarillion 
War Of The Worlds 
You Betchy It's Sketchy 

Middle Earth 


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Administrators: Kristine Hoffman, Greg Opland, James DeRoussel, JJ Schlick, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: WSnyder on Apr 7, 2006

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  Print a Mini-Guide with routes

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Aleix fishing for feet on War of the Worlds, 5.12 ...

Description 

Spring and Fall. Summer is OK if you climb the far left side in the alcove until 2-3 pm. Mostly sport with a few gear routes. Routes from 5.8 through 5.12+. The alcove holds several overhanging sport routes a few of which are worth the visit. The rest of the crag has longer, less than vertical to vertical climbing and some of these are very good if you prefer these types of routes.


Getting There 

Follow EFR's description in the guidebook but the pullout is a little further up the road and on the left after the new road construction. The trail starts at the upper end of this new pullout.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Earth:
Silmarillion   5.10     Sport, 150 feet   
Middle Earth   5.10     Sport, 155 feet   
Pull Me Up   5.10+     Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet   
Grand Opening   5.11a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80 feet   
The Planet Eater   5.11     Sport, 2 pitches, 160 feet   
The Breeze   5.11c     Sport, 40 feet   
Delirious   5.12a     Sport, 60 feet   
Fireball   5.12b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   
Irresistable   5.12b     Sport, 70 feet   
Elfin Warrior   5.12     Sport, 60 feet   
Infectious   5.13     Sport   
Browse More Classics in Middle Earth

Featured Route For Middle Earth
Marie Louka On Planet Eater

The Planet Eater 5.11  AZ : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : ... : Middle Earth
Slabby technical start to a lieback to jugs as it gets steeper. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in AZ


Photos of Middle Earth Slideshow Add Photo
Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of the Worlds

Jesse works the laybacks at the start of War of th...

From the trail as it turns back to the south to reach the base of the cliff.  Stay as close to the base of the slabs as possible.  You want to walk right under Bobbin' For Hobbit's the route the climber (in red) is on.

BETA PHOTO: From the trail as it turns back to the south to re...

A Multi-Purpose Crag

A Multi-Purpose Crag


Comments on Middle Earth Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joseph Stover
From: Santa Barbara, CA
May 14, 2007

There are several(at least 2) bolts missing hangers left of "The Breeze". I think the route left of the breeze has all of its hard ware but the two left of that are missing some stuff. Maybe more, I am not sure.

By Christian
From: Tucson, Az
Sep 12, 2007

Would it be faster to approach Middle Earth via the Lizard Rock area?

By jbak
Sep 12, 2007

Christian....the short answer is no...not faster. But it's not that much longer either.

By Hendrixson
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 19, 2010

The Hendrixson Bailing Challenge: 3 Routes in 1 Day.

There was a bit of confusion as new routes have been added since SLII was published. "Bobbin For Hobbits" and "Elfin Warrior" precede "Infectious", the "Open Project" in the guidebook. Hence "Infectious" is not "Delirious"; furthermore, neither "The Gift" nor "The Bump" are "The Breeze".

"The Gift" is still missing at least the second bolt. There appeared to be chalk on the route, however, so maybe it is unnecessary.

The trail, while still easily identifiable, could use a little maintenance.

By JSchultz
May 15, 2011

Adam Block is a bad@#&! Yesterday he sent War of the Worlds and The Bump. The Bump went 2nd go after not getting on it for several years.
Not bad for a day of climbing. Last time I take him to work my project...
Good job Adam!

By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Apr 18, 2012

The "Getting there" section of most areas in AZ could use a little help. For middle earth, try this:
After mp15 you will pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right, the very next pullout (on your left) is for Middle Earth and The Helmet (just below 2 blocky towers). Start at the upper end of the pullout and walk up the gully. Just before you reach the crest cairns will either continue straight up (Helmet) or go right (middle earth). Follow right and sidehill (uphill to right) above a large slab area then circle back around left to arrive at the climber's left side of the crag.