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Middle Deception Crack 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 784
Submitted By: Will Cobb on Apr 25, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: Middle Deception crack is on the right

Description 

This route is the first crack system left of the Right Deception. Climb an easy slab to the crux. Face climbing, body English, and levitation get you to a small pod. From this point it is mostly hands and fingers to the top.

The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.

Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.

Protection 

1-3.5" Cams
Medium - Large Stoppers
Slings and Draws


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By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 31, 2007

For the crux I used the following -

A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab.