Middle Deception Crack
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This route is the first crack system left of the Right Deception. Climb an easy slab to the crux. Face climbing, body English, and levitation get you to a small pod. From this point it is mostly hands and fingers to the top.
The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.
Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.
Medium - Large Stoppers
Slings and Draws
|Comments on Middle Deception Crack
|By Will Cobb|
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 31, 2007
For the crux I used the following -
A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab.