Middle Deception Crack
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BETA PHOTO: Middle Deception crack is on the right
This route is the first crack system left of the Right Deception. Climb an easy slab to the crux. Face climbing, body English, and levitation get you to a small pod. From this point it is mostly hands and fingers to the top.
The crux is awkward and difficult to protect. Most folks TR this route.
Descent - Rappel from two bolts atop the Right Deception Crack or scramble down to the right of PMC.
Medium - Large Stoppers
Slings and Draws
By Will Cobb
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 31, 2007
For the crux I used the following -
A #2 camalot down low in a slot just to keep me from falling all the way back to the parking lot if I blew the crux gear. An Orange (#3) Metolius TCU and a Gold DMM (1.5 WC Friend Size) cam. Then, have a #2 or #1 camalot ready. Once you stand up in the pod it is possible to place a good cam and once again become safe from taking a fall onto the approach slab.