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Middle Climb 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
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Submitted By: Dominic Albanese on Jul 26, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: The main wall at Ilchester, the center of the Pata...

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Climbs the main, wide-ish crack/layback in the middle of the face. Hence the name. Steepens a bit at the top.

A popular intro to the area, and a good one to get used to the slightly strange rock at Ilchester.

Start is the crux no matter how you start.


Many starts for this ranging from using the tree to go straight up, to variations right and left. Watch swing if starting to the side.


As long as someone spots you off the ground, this quickly becomes G rated gear. TR anchor on top.

Can seep a bit after the rain.

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