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Middle Class Socialist Brat 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Perin Blanchard, October 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 836
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Jun 9, 2012

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Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A fun romp next to a seam/occasional crack with a bit of a surprise at the end.

Stem up the shallow open book on a couple of awkward sidepulls and thin holds. Find a jug or two and head upward, mostly to the left of the seam but occasionally stemming across it.

Nearing the top it's mostly thin face climbing, but at the bulge right before the chains there are a few crack-ish holds, although you may find them mildly deceptive.


Location 

Starts up the shallow, tan open book to the right of the main section of Escape. If counting from Jug for Joy (the left-most on the main section) it's the seventh from the left.


Protection 

10 bolts, chain anchors.



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By BRSchneid
From: Logan , UT
Nov 20, 2012

Not your typical AF canyon Pocket pulling. My Brother and I really enjoyed this route. you alternate from crack/ lieback moves to crimps and small edges. It's a long route but not overhung so you can get plenty of no hands rests. I found the funnest moves were getting to the first bolt and between the last bolt and chains. Still a newish route so watch out for loose holds. Fun Route!

By TLEE
From: Salt Lake City
May 20, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Great Long route, Lots of Stemming with solid holds that kept appearing. Fun new route on this crag