L to R R to L Alpha
Anywhere else in the world, a rock formation the size and quality of Middle Cathedral Rock would be a full-on climbing area in it's own right. It has the unfortunate problem of residing right across the road from THE ROCK (El Capitan), however. Still, Middle Cathedral has some excellent, long free routes on it that are well worth checking out. The most popular route on MCR is probably The East Buttress (5.9 A0 or 10c), included in the 50 Classic Climbs of North America. The next most trafficed route is probably Central Pillar of Frenzy (5.9), a nice crack line to the right of the East Butt (most parties climb five pitches and then rappel).
Middle Cathedral Rock is the (surprise!) middle of the three Cathedral Rocks, found just south across the valley from El Capitan.
24 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Middle Cathedral Rock
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Cathedral Rock:
Kor-Beck 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 6 pitches, 600'
Central Pillar of Frenzy 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a Trad, 5 pitches
Pee Pee Pillar 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
North Buttress 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Trad, 18 pitches, 2000'
Direct North Buttress (DNB) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b Trad, 17 pitches, 1700'
Ramer 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Sport, 1 pitch, 140'
Ho Chi Minh Trail 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 19 pitches, 2000'
Stoner's Highway 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b R Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'
East Buttress 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b Trad, 11 pitches, 1100'
Bircheff-Williams 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Featured Route For Middle Cathedral Rock
Direct North Buttress (DNB) 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b CA : Yosemite National Park : ... : Middle Cathedral Rock
Hard to squeeze more climbing in a day. The first pitch sets the stage - the 5.7 chimney is umm, not fast climbing. The 3rd pitch crux is, umm, difficult, but bolt protected. The 4th pitch includes some 5.9 R climbing, but from there on out route finding and moving quickly are the major difficulties. Spectacular views of the captain, plenty of company with all the swallows. I don't know why anyone would complain about this route. Don't just take my word for it- Bill Wright had this to say: ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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