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DescriptionThe Middle Bell Tower can easily be picked out by a big right facing corner which pulls through two huge roofs (the Ellsworth-McQuarrie route). To the left of this is a shield of high quality granite which holds Arm and Hammer, a Bell Tower classic. The Middle Bell Tower is the 3rd Bell tower encountered, after the Far West and the West Bell. Getting ThereStart at the trailhead for Bell's Canyon off of Wasatch Blvd. Follow this uphill, steeply at times, for 2 or 3 miles until adjacent with the Middle Bell Tower. This takes approximately 75 to 90 minutes to reach, depending on how fast you hike. Look for a faint trail (a ways above the turnoff for the waterfall) which heads easily over to the base of Middle Bell Tower. This faint trail avoids any bushwhacking, but has a lot of scrambling over giant boulders to cross the creek. From the trail, it is about 10 minutes to the base of the rock. Total approach time ~ one hour and 30-45 minutes. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Middle Bell Tower:
Ellsworth-McQuarrie Route 5.7 Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Butcher Knife 5.10d Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III
Arm and Hammer 5.11c Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Cymbals Of The Sun 5.11+ Trad, 6 pitches, 600 feet, Grade III
Featured Route For Middle Bell Tower
Butcher Knife 5.10d UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Middle Bell Tower
P1 Climb same 5.7 start as A&HP2 Do the traverse to the crescent ledgeP3 Head right and down climb a bit to make upward progress passed two bolts. Then head right to a right facing corner and up to a third bolt. Make some dicey slab moves and up to the anchors.P4 Long pitch with a lot of rope drag so use slings. Traverse 30' left to a ledge where a crack splits the face and turns right under a roof. Follow the crack to a belay station and head for the wild roof split by a finger crack. Pull the ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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