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Midas Touch is one of the best routes at Trout. If you think every route here is an endurance test, this will quickly dissuade you. It features cruxy face climbing, pockets, stemming, and even some crucial incuts. Similar to Purple Pinky Eater, the cruxy climbing occurs after 50' of 5.10 crack climbing, so even though big fall potential exists, these falls should be safe. This alone makes it a nice change from the headier starts on Monster, Space Mission, and other routes of similar grade.
When the two thin-hand cracks end, use a mix of features via sustained 5.11 climbing. Pass 2 possible small gear placements and hit the horizontal atop the crux sequence. Going ground-up should be safe, but the crux placements are fairly specific.
This is the direct line to the anchors atop Alchemy, or two routes to the right of Gold Rush
A double rack from #2 camalot to blue Metolius, with extra finger-sized pieces, and a few small wires.
Nov 9, 2012
FA: Pat McCarthy