This is the cliff directly above the Winkie Dinkie Cliff. It has some high quality routes with very little traffic. It is fairly shaded.
There are at least five ways to access Mid Wall.
1) Take the Seamstress route after hiking up to K-Cliff (see images linked to route).
2) Hike up all the way from K-Cliff using fixed lines as described below:
Traverse right along the base of K-Cliff and follow the trail up the gully past the Lip. Traverse along the faint trail above the Black Wall to the base of Winkie Dinkie. Pass Gorilla my Dreams and walk towards the top of Breakfast of Champions, keeping an eye out for a gully on the left. Go up the gully and through the tunnel with the fixed line. Now you are on top of Julie's Roof. Follow a second fixed line and a goat trail to a blocky narrow passage. (If you take this third fixed line down you will access all of the top of the Lower Wall.) If you go up the fixed line, you will be at the Middle Wall.
Update: June 2014: There appears to be no fixed lines on this route now.
3) Via Winkie Dinkie cliff. Climb something at the Great Northern Slab, Princely Ambitions, or hike in from the trail between K-Cliff and the Lip, and then climb Gorilla My Dreams (or the above fixed lines) to get up there.
4) Do a route that either tops out on the Narrow-Arrow end of the Lower Wall, or the wall left of Orc Tower.
5) Hike the trail that goes to the Upper Town Wall (from the Country), taking the first turnout left. Where the Blues Cliff trail forks off left, stay right and continue across the top of the Lower Wall. This is a fun hike, but be careful about the dilapidated stairs. Also use caution on the exposed wooden bridge.
Weather station 1.2 miles from here
17 Total Routes
['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in Mid Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mid Wall:
PBR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Featured Route For Mid Wall
Plum Pudding 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a WA
: ... : Mid Wall
This is an awesome layback climb up a right facing corner with finger sized gear. The climbing is fairly sustained, but a few small feet allow for rests and oportunities to place gear. There is a fun corner to the right that you can TR from the anchors. That corner, PBR, checks in at around 5.10....[more] Browse More Classics in WA
Latest Regional Forum Messages
By Jon Nelson
Apr 10, 2012
A fun way to reach this wall is to do the two pitches of Princely Ambitions (5.9), walk up and left on a short trail, then do Gorilla my dreams (5.10a). (GMD is on the Winkie Dinkie cliff, just above the Free Area.) From the top anchor on GMD, hand-over-hand your way up a short section with a fixed rope, then walk another short trail.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 28, 2013
Great area for a hot day.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 20, 2014
There is no fixed rope above Princely/ Champions.
If you topped out Beak, Beak you would find a fixed line above St. Francis ledge.
The old trail is really long compared to Gorilla or Seamstress approach. It is past 1/2 way to UTW, not recommended unless you want a long hike in the dark woods.
By Jon Nelson
Jun 20, 2014
Thanks Geoff, I updated the approach description above.