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 ADVANCED
Wild, Wild Western Pinnacles (aka Orange Rocks)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gold Rush/High Noon S,TR 
Harlot's Slot / Pete's 5:12b S 
Mid-Life Crisis S,TR 
Poker TR 

Mid-Life Crisis 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Scott Bullock, Ken Klis, Matt Greiger 2004
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 482
Submitted By: Scott Bullock on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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The crux of my Mid-life Crisis
Photo Copyright Vic...

Description 

Your "mid-life crisis" begins down in the Poison Oak infested gully below Pete's 5.12. Use the aid bolt on the left for decent and security. Start on a small slab reaching for a good ledge and the first bolt. An easy crank prepares you for clip two. An awkward mantle under a roof is the crux. Take your time its all balance and the holds are there. Cruise up the pinnacle to the last bolt and anchors and don't miss the views!


Protection 

4 new bolts two bolt anchor with rap rings



Photos of Mid-Life Crisis Slideshow Add Photo
Photo Copyright Victoria Garagliano
Photo Copyright Victoria Garagliano
Check out the view! <br />Photo Copyright Victoria Garagliano
Check out the view!
Photo Copyright Victoria Garag...
Comments on Mid-Life Crisis Add Comment
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By John Knight
Feb 28, 2004
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Bob Hill, Jon Hanlon & I climbed Mid Life Crisis today. I think we all concur, that this is a really great route. The pulls over the overhangs are mentally challenging but there are good feet and hands when you need them. The clips are well placed & easy to reach for an average (5'10ish) person. It's still a bit crumbly in spots and has a few loose flakes (I pulled on one & fell when it ripped). However, after a few more people climb it, I think it will be a classic. If you're not up to a lead, it's relatively easy to set up a top rope by working your way around to the left of the higher pinnacle. Wear long pants & watch the poison oak. One last thing, the views are awesome!

By vincent lopez
Sep 18, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Saaweet short little route !! yes it is only about 35 feet high but you get super steep jug hauling on bomber rock with a beautiful top out . well bolted and safe to. the 30 second approach does suck because you have to step on plants and it is a little technical but worth it all in all .....

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 26, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

3 out of 4 stars for quality, but the the inevitable poison oak will make me think twice before repeating this one.

By Floyd Hayes
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

We avoided most of the poison oak while approaching from the bottom. However, the best way to avoid it is rapping down from above after approaching through the old quarry. Strands of poison oak are dangling just left of the first bolt--I got poked in the eye and brushed with my left arm while leading. I washed myself well with water after lowering and never got a rash. One of my two climbing partners got a rash on her hands.

By Brian Prince
From: morro bay, ca
Feb 3, 2011

I got poison oak over my whole entire body after climbing this. I am itching as I type. It was a pretty fun route though.