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The Wake-Up Wall
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Mic's Master 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Michelle Locatelli
Page Views: 2,578
Submitted By: Cunning Linguist on Jun 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (76)
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Scott crushing the Crux

Climbing in Red Rocks after heavy rain can permanently damage the rock! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

New route with a short, safe crux, easy lower off, solid bolts, and fun climbing. I've heard from 10a-10c, I thought it was a one-move 5.10.

Location 

Just left of two easier central slab routes-immediately right of Just Shut Up and Climb.

Protection 

Draws


Photos of Mic's Master Slideshow Add Photo
Daryl at Mic's Master
Daryl at Mic's Master
me leading Mic's Master on the Wake Up Wall
me leading Mic's Master on the Wake Up Wall
The 'arete route' is located behind the shorter mi...
BETA PHOTO: The 'arete route' is located behind the shorter mi...
Mic's Master
Mic's Master
Mic's Master crux
Mic's Master crux
Topping out Mic's Master
Topping out Mic's Master
mics master
mics master

Comments on Mic's Master Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 29, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Be mindful of the jug left of the second bolt- the right hand side is bomber, but the left hand side felt...not as secure as it should be.
By MN norske
From: Henderson
May 12, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

after clipping second bolt you enter the crux (I thought). There is a hold that looks like a big jug but just crimpers. You under cling this instead of over cling and send it. Def pumpy if your not used to overhung.
By Nick Zmyewski
From: Newark, Delaware
Jan 28, 2014

I really loved this climb, awesome juggy overghang. Super fun!
By jennaxoran
Feb 17, 2015

Examine your draw on the fourth bolt carefully. The climber before me warned me that none of his draws would lie safely do to the position of the hanger.

I went up to fourth saw what his was talking about clipped it and carefully took. As soon as I took I watched my carabiner gate open =0. I extremely carefully finished the route above it, treating it as no fall.

If I lived in the area I would contact the local climbing group to see about putting maybe a length of chain with a quick link on it, or a fixe draw like fixehardware.com/shop/anchors/... there. I think most carabiners are not going to sit properly, I've very glad I didn't go above that bolt and fall.
By Cunning Linguist
Feb 18, 2015

They make these things called lockers. If you're shitting egg rolls because your biner opened, perhaps you should use a biner that won't open?

Or you can pray to the Local Climbing Group Gods to start permadrawing everything for your convenience. Cause that is certain to happen.

Sport climber- noun A person woefully under equipped to climb outdoors who wouldn't know how to deal with anything out of the ordinary when, predictably and reliably, that happens.
By Tim Lutz
Feb 18, 2015

So instead of suggesting moving the poorly placed bolt, blame the silly sport climber!

Lesson learned, thanks Killis.
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