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Palisades Park
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Mickey's Mantle 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 691
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Feb 4, 2008

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Description 

For full value, start underneath the roof. Lunge out to the edge of the roof, and mantle onto the face. Mellow face climbing leads up to a steeper section and another crux at the top.


Location 

Look for a low-lying roof to the left of Boobs. This route starts at the left end of that roof.


Protection 

standard rack



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By Joey Wolfe
Feb 4, 2008

Mickey was pulling mantles all over the south!! I just climbed a "Mickey's Mantle" .10a at Curahee in Ga. I guess now i should try Palisade's "Mickey's Mantle". The descriptions even sound similar, anyone know the FA of the AL "MM"?

By Nathan Self
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

New anchors at the top.

By Brandon.Phillips
From: Double Springs, AL
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This climb felt significantly easier than Boobs. The first 2/3 of the route are just a huge jug haul, followed by some thin face climbing (crux) at the end. Fun route, great new anchors. I would normally call this a 5.10, but not compared to the routes next to it, Boobs and Microgully, which the guide calls 5.9.

By Siberia
From: Birmingham, AL
Oct 2, 2013

If you start on the left side of the corner/dihedral and then move up and right on to the face I'd call it a 9. But if you make the direct start straight on to the face with the heel hook or campus, then I'd say it's a 10 when combined with the upper crux. Just my opinion.

By Ryan Watts
From: Bishop, CA
Oct 28, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

From the face right above the roof I went straight up the face to the obvious anchors. The climbing at the top was thin face up a shallow seam/dihedral (felt about 5.9ish). I thought this was Mickey's Mantle but then someone else told me that was Microgully and Mickey's Mantle was more to the left?

By Siberia
From: Birmingham, AL
Mar 24, 2014

@ Ryan, it sounds like you were on Micro Gulley.

I'll try and give a little clarification. There are 3 popular routes right in this area. When facing the cliff at the bottom, from left to right you have Mickey's Mantle, Micro Gulley, and Boobs.

There is a shallow low angle dihedral at the bottom left side. Mickey's Mantle starts to the right of the corner in the big horizontals and goes almost straight up. The start is a very bouldery move, then a jug haul to the thin crux at the top. Some shorter people will use the left side of the start to gain the big horizontal, and then campus right to gain the direct start for the full grade. Bolted anchors.

Next to the right is Micro Gulley. It starts about 10+ feet to the right of Mickey's Mantle on big horizontals as well. It goes up and slightly to the right and finishes through a thin and shallow micro gulley. The finish is only about 5-7ft to the left of Boobs. Bolted anchors as of 3/22/14.

Boobs is around the arete - face climbing leads to a roof and then anchors in the 'cleavage'.