Scramble up a broken section past a tree to a ledge. Climb the arete to a 2 bolt rap. First move off the deck has some exposure.
Located on the 'fin', rock-right of Mondo Freako and Unknown (5.6?).
4 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
Brian leading Mickey Mouse.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
FA's - Chad Cooper & Briana Broderick 11/94
Mar 13, 2009
As of 9MAR09 the first bolt is still sans hanger, and the 3rd or 4th bolt is also missing the hanger. Both studs still in place.
|By Johnny Ice|
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 30, 2011
I saw a bolt with a removed hanger about 8 feet off the ground that would've been nice to clip. I was thinking to myself "gee, if I fell I could dash my brains out on the tree, rock, or ground that are 20 feet below". I'm an advocate for not over bolting but hey, there should be some protection off the start so there won't be a 20 foot fall... but perhaps I missed the pro.
|By Bill Olszewski|
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 4, 2011
Hangers are still missing. Just hang some wired stoppers from the bolts. Fun climb!
|By matt evans|
From: salt lake city, UT
Oct 3, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
This route is way harder than a 5.7. Perhaps a large flake has broken off in the past month or so. The first and fifth hangers are missing, like other posters have said. I would rate this route a 5.10a or harder. I led giggling marlin with ease, but this route sketched me out so bad. It's easy when you get up near the top though (I'd say a 5.10b start and a 5.7 finish actually).
|By Wiley Coyote|
From: Phoenix, Arizona
Jul 22, 2012
Matt Evan's description is spot on. Just recently climbed this again, and feels more 5.9 than 5.7. Fun climb minus the protection issue.