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Mickey Mouse New Rappel Anchors

Original Post
Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952

Bolted anchor stations were installed today on the main Mickey Mouse rappel route between the Middle and North Towers (photo page 419, Levin, "Eldorado Canyon, A Climbing Guide", 2nd Edition). All anchors 1/2" x 3" or 1/2" x 4" SS Powers 5-piece.

Rap 1: From anchors on the face climber's left of the notch, rappel 90 feet, angling climber's right, to a sloping ledge and 2-bolt anchor station. This station is approximately 10 feet higher, and 10 feet right of the old nut/thread anchor. Easy rope pull from here.

Rap 2: Rappel 90 feet, angling slightly climber's left past a ledge, to a larger ledge. Anchors on wall adjacent to the large tree where slings used to be.

Rap 3: Rappel 80 feet straight down to starting ledge of Perversion. Traverse climber's left and up across ledge to the ground.

60m rope required. Watch Rope Ends!

Jason Haas · · Broomfield, CO · Joined Oct 2005 · Points: 1,582

I would just like to add that this was done with an approved permit from OSMP. While organizing the main re-bolt event at Mickey Mouse for tomorrow, several applications were proposed for webbing anchors to become bolt anchors, which OSMP approved. This rappel line was one of them. Big thanks should go to OSMP for having such a great relationship with climbers and being so easy/awesome to work with for this event.

Steve Sangdahl · · eldo sprngs, co · Joined Mar 2002 · Points: 735

Thanks for doing that Steve!!!

Josh Janes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2001 · Points: 9,954

Not that I object to any of these anchors but is MM within Eldorado Canyon SP? I can't remember... But if so, were the anchor proposals up for public comment and vote on the ACE site?

mtoensing · · AZ · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 705

Very appreciated!

Bruce Hildenbrand · · Silicon Valley/Boulder · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 3,615

Thanks guys for all your hard work and I am sorry to miss the rebolting day tomorrow.

I remember going up there in about 1986 or so with a backpack full of cord and slings and fortifying the existing anchors. I a bunch of slings around the two big boulders(one boulder as a backup for the other boulder) and then rings on the top station. The second station was a bunch of knotted slings with rings and the last station was the big tree on the ledge.

I think I ended up using somewhere between 20 and 30 slings plus some 9mm perlon cord. I left rap rings hoping that some dirtbag wouldn't clean them and then put them on consignment at Neptunes just to make a few bucks.

Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952
Josh Janes wrote:Not that I object to any of these anchors but is MM within Eldorado Canyon SP? I can't remember... But if so, were the anchor proposals up for public comment and vote on the ACE site?
No, MM is outside of ECSP.
Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952

Here is the new/old top anchor on the main Middle/North Towers rap route at Mickey Mouse. The new top anchors are easy to reach from the notch, and the rappel is now much easier to initiate than from the old awkward rap point.

New/Old anchors on Main Mickey Mouse Rap Route

We re-located the middle anchor point primarily because at the location of the old threaded slings/nut anchor the rock was blocky, hollow and did not afford suitable rock to drill. The new anchor location is about 10 feet higher, so with a 60m rope you should not be right at the rope ends at the bottom of the rappel like with the old anchor. There is also a fairly good albeit sloping ledge at this new anchor that can accommodate three climbers if necessary. NOTE: It's about 10 feet climber's right of the old anchor, so (like it's always been on this rappel) it's important to angle climber's right over the nose about 40 feet down from the notch at the summit to position your rap line on the right of the prominent right-facing corner. Tie stopper knots on your rope ends!

We removed a bunch of old tat from all three of the anchors; some of it was pretty old and crunchy. Sobering what we sometimes consider routine fixed anchors.

plantmandan · · Brighton, CO · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 85

Thank you!

Steve Bartlett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,376

A big thanks to Jason Haas for organizing all this rap-anchor clean-up/bolt-maintenance action. And to Steve Levin (and Chris Weidner) for dragging me up whatever that 5.9+++ route was that gains the summit ledge. A fun day!

"I left rap rings hoping that some dirtbag wouldn't clean them and then put them on consignment at Neptunes just to make a few bucks."

Hey, Bruce Hildebrand, we brought eight rap rings down, presumably yours, and I have them, safe and sound, plus **freebie** locking biner, too. You are welcome to have them all if you want 'em, send me an email through MP:

Mickey Mouse old rappel stuff

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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