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 ADVANCED
Smooth Sole Wall - Right Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of the Bulge T 
Chatsworth Chimney T 
Fiend, The T 
Howard's Fifty Footer T 
Mantle Fiend T 
Mickey Mantle T 
Pink Royd T 
Sensuous Corner T 
Tango S 
Toxic Waltz T 
Ultimatum T 

Mickey Mantle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Jim Wilson and Phil Warrender, April 1972
Season: Spring - Fall
Page Views: 2,492
Submitted By: Roger Linfield on Jan 26, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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BETA PHOTO: This is the start.

Description 

This is perhaps the best route on the Smooth Soul Wall. It has mantles, edges, friction, and a novel traverse, all on excellent rock. With only three bolts and fairly sustained climbing, there are substantial runouts. Rappel 90 feet from a ledge at the end of the route (or continue up with an easy second pitch and walk off). It is in the sun all day.

Protection 

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor


Photos of Mickey Mantle Slideshow Add Photo
First bolt.
First bolt.

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By C Miller
Administrator
Jan 28, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

A good route for 5.10 (and above) leaders - this isn't a route you want to fall off when leading.

A direct finish (5.10+) has been done on toprope and climbs straight up from the 2nd bolt to join the last bit of The Fiend right before the anchors.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 11, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

This really is a fun route. A bit "spicey" as some would say, but the rock is so sticky and featured, that if one can overcome any insecurities of the protection factor, they can breeze right on up this.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Dec 20, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Suicide? Aren't there just a bunch of boring slab climbs there? - Conversation I once had at Stoney Point with someone.

What a great character packed route.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 17, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Hey Guys; Whats all the Hub bub about the pro on this route? For that matter the whole wall! The bolts were placed on the lead where there was a place to get a stance to drill.This is a well protected route,done in the style of this Area and of the time.Thats why they call it (traditional) rock climbing.
By C Miller
Administrator
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

Bruce - The "hub bub" is to alert those drawn to the climb by the mild grade that it's no sport route and is a somewhat serious lead for those climbing at or near their limit.
By DJ Reyes
From: Northern Nevada
Dec 14, 2013

This was the first route I jumped on on my first trip to Suicide. I didn't know anything about it or the scary rep it had. I chose it because of the casual rating of 5.8. I can say that it was quite an eye-opener for me. I can still remember 25 years later moving out toward what I think was the third bolt with my heart just pounding and my nerves fraying. I made it to the top though with no falls and a great story. Good Times!
By johannsolo
From: So Cal
May 12, 2014

The runout rising traverse from the second bolt is VERY serious if you loose your shi$.