Sunny sandstone top roping in the lower peninsula of Michigan right off of the Grand River. The cliff is only 40 to 45 feet tall at best, but offers very bouldery, challenging climbs. Classic climbs included:
The cliff faces south and receives sun most of the day. It exists in a City Park, but currently the city is pro climbing. It is the only known cliff in lower Michigan that you can climb at.
Getting There
Find Grand Ledge, Michigan (use Map Quest or Google). Then head through downtown along Bridge St. Once you cross the bridge, hang a left on the first street. You will drive though a subdivision street until you dead end at Lilly Park. The approach to the cliff is obvious- simply hike down towards the river via trails that take you down to where the cliff breaks down on both sides.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Grand Ledge:
A bouldery start in a shallow open book... climb to the flaky roof then heel hook to pull out and follow the jugs all the way to the top..... Classic!!...[more]Browse More Classics in MI
What G.L. is all about? Soft rock, regulations, short routes and crowds. I was told all about it in the early 90's once by someone who enthusiastically encouraged me to try it out. In the end, I went with my girlfriend and both of us decided that the guy who so encouraged us to go there with his praise-laiden descriptions should actually check the place out for himself some time...
Grand Ledge isn't much, I sure wouldn't call it a destination, but it is virtually the only climbing available to Michigan climbers. Because of this, it is crucial that local rules are respected in order to prevent excessive erosion and to maintain good relations with the city.
No lead climbing No rappelling Use carpet to pad the edge under your ropes Do not top out Tread lightly when setting up TRs and around vegetation on routes
There are a limited number of routes at the Ledges and sharing ropes is the norm. It's a good idea to peek around at the top before you hike down and make sure you are comfortable with getting on someone else's setup. If you see something dangerous, tell the owner of the rope. There are lots of beginners here and I have seen some incredibly bad setups, but a little friendly advice has almost always been well received.
i 2nd the sketchy setups. i went there once with my then girlfriend and was amazed at what people would entrust their bones to. sketchy! no lead climbing? is that because of rock quality or just some BS put up by the locals?
World class, absolutely not, I would never go out of my way, but if you are near by it really is worth checking out. There is a lot of shit but a few gems mostly of mid-tougher grades. There should be at least one knowledgeable good climber around at any one time who would be happy to give a tour of the best stuff be sure to ask about The Trick (v2), Enigma (v6), Despondency (5.11), Resistance (5.13), Inappropriate Behavior (5.12-), and Raged Edge (5.12). It's easy to be negative about Grand Ledge, but put your ego aside and have a bit of fun.
The fore mentioned egos refer to future prospective climbers and not past posters. I found I could only have fun at Grand Ledge with my ego left in the car.
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