Miccis 5.8+
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Good page?   |
| Type: | Sport |
| Consensus: | 5.9- [details] |
| FA: | Bruce Hendricks & Carol Wiede (1982) |
| Submitted By: | Matthew Fienup on Mar 16, 2006 |
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Description Interesting climbing including long reaches between positive edges and deep pockets.
An interesting variation is to climb the face 6 feet left of Miccis (5.9+). Traverse right into the second bolt and follow Miccis to the top. This variation actually gets its own name ("Pro Job"), although it's hardly its own route. The lead is sketchy getting to the second bolt of Miccis--mostly a TR.
Protection 4 bolts to anchors. This route simply doesn't feel as cozy and comfortable as Zyzzxx.
Update: As of October 2006, someone has replaced all four lead bolts with 3/8" Rawl-style expansion bolts.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 11, 2006
| According to tests done by Duane Raleigh (published in Climbing Magazine, Oct. 1992), the type of bolt used on "Miccis" has functionally no strength in 2000psi rock (rock which is TWICE as hard as Poterro John's sandstone). For more info, see Anchors Away |
By ryan mattock
Mar 16, 2009
| nice contrived full of features sorta climb. |
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jun 1, 2010
| I think this gets my vote as the best climb at the crag. Very fun. |
By Benjamin Chapman
From: CA
May 30, 2011
| Until I climbed Migrating Coconuts (aka Zyzzxx) I would have agreed with Matthew. While Miccis is fun and a great lead, Migrating Coconuts has better flow and consistently more entertaining moves. |
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