Type: Sport, 60 ft (18 m), 4 pitches
FA: R. Boscaeino & E. Jimenez
Page Views: 1,803 total · 15/month
Shared By: Steven Lucarelli on Feb 17, 2014 · Updates
Admins: Heliodor Jalba

You & This Route


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Warning Access Issue: Private property. Please be respectful! Keep the locked gate locked at all times. And scramble the code on the lock! DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

If you like stemming, then the first pitch of this is your route!

P1: 5.10a - Head up the dihedral, with gray rock on the right and rougher brown, lichen-covered rock on the left. If doing the second pitch, there's a second set of anchors near the top of P1. When you reach the first set of chains, look left: a bolt protects a delicate traverse leading to a second set of chains that makes leading P2 easier.

P2: 5.10b - Comfortable belay station. The second pitch heads up to the pair of chains visible in the mini-cave above.

P3: 5.10b - Hard moves out of the gate to easier climbing. The third pitch trends right as it goes up. 

P4: 5.9 - From the belay station at the top of P3, look left. Scramble around the ledge, clipping a bolt on the way. There's another set of bolts to set a station to belay P4, which goes up the middle face to a pair of chains below the vegetation near the peak. If you try to belay from the P3 anchor, there will be significant rope drag.

A fixed 60m rope is long enough to do a single-strand rappel from the top of P3 to the base of Lento Gómez. If you leave a second 60m rope on the ground, the first climber down can tie it to the fixed line, which the second climber can then pull up to do a double-strand rappel to the ground. Note that there's a lot of vegetation on the descent that's likely to snag ropes.

Location Suggest change

Look for the obvious corner system and the belay platform straight in front of you as you exit the approach trail.

There are name plates on the wall for each route. Use the left-to-right sorting of route names to cross-reference as you walk along at the crag.

Protection Suggest change

P1: 7 bolts to two chains

P2: Bolts to two chains

P3: Bolts to two chains

P4: Bolts to two chains

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