Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m), 4 pitches |
FA: | R. Boscaeino & E. Jimenez |
Page Views: | 1,803 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Steven Lucarelli on Feb 17, 2014 · Updates |
Admins: | Heliodor Jalba |
Description
If you like stemming, then the first pitch of this is your route!
P1: 5.10a - Head up the dihedral, with gray rock on the right and rougher brown, lichen-covered rock on the left. If doing the second pitch, there's a second set of anchors near the top of P1. When you reach the first set of chains, look left: a bolt protects a delicate traverse leading to a second set of chains that makes leading P2 easier.
P2: 5.10b - Comfortable belay station. The second pitch heads up to the pair of chains visible in the mini-cave above.
P3: 5.10b - Hard moves out of the gate to easier climbing. The third pitch trends right as it goes up.
P4: 5.9 - From the belay station at the top of P3, look left. Scramble around the ledge, clipping a bolt on the way. There's another set of bolts to set a station to belay P4, which goes up the middle face to a pair of chains below the vegetation near the peak. If you try to belay from the P3 anchor, there will be significant rope drag.
A fixed 60m rope is long enough to do a single-strand rappel from the top of P3 to the base of Lento Gómez. If you leave a second 60m rope on the ground, the first climber down can tie it to the fixed line, which the second climber can then pull up to do a double-strand rappel to the ground. Note that there's a lot of vegetation on the descent that's likely to snag ropes.
1 Comment