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Mexico

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Mexico 


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Location: 24.0465, -103.2275 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Hank Caylor, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: M.Morley on Jan 20, 2007
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Classic view of The Sumidero Canyon taken by boat....

Description 

Mexico is a big country, roughly a quarter the size of the Lower 48 in land area. It includes the Baja California peninsula, extending nearly 800 miles south of the U.S. border.

Much of Northern Mexico lies within the arid Chihuahuan desert, with geography similar to west Texas and southern New Mexico. El Potrero Chico is located in the north-eastern state of Nuevo León, about 25 miles northwest of the city of Monterrey (population: 3 million). The Potrero is a sport climbing paradise, with limestone similar to Thailand (so I've been told) and routes up to 20 pitches in length.

Mexico is also home to several dozen volcanoes, both extinct and active. At 5,700m (18,701 ft), Pico de Orizaba is the highest peak in the country. Close behind are Popocatépetl "Popo" at 5,452m (17,887 ft) and Iztaccíhuatl "Ixta" at 5,286m (17,342 ft). All three are popular destinations for mountaineers in training for the bigger ranges.


Getting There 

Refer to areas for specific directions.


568 Total Routes


['4 Stars',74],['3 Stars',216],['2 Stars',165],['1 Star',61],['Bomb',6]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',7],['5.8',29],['5.9',55],['5.10',156],['5.11',139],['5.12',125],['5.13',40],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',5],['V2-3',4],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',2],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mexico:
Dead Man Walking   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 135'   El Potrero Chico : The Dihedrals
Will the Wolf Survive?   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches, 400'   El Potrero Chico : Los Lobos Canyon
Aguja Celo Rey   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   El Potrero Chico : Las Agujas (The Spires)
Treasure of the Sierra Madre   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 7 pitches, 700'   El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall
Pancho Villa Rides Again   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall
Satori   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 7 pitches, 700'   El Toro (The Bull) aka Fron... : Zapatista Wall
Snott Girlz   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 7 pitches, 450'   El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall
Black Cat Bone   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 9 pitches, 800'   El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall)
Space Boyz   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Sport, 11 pitches, 1000'   El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall)
Two Pump Chump   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   El Potrero Chico : Mota Wall
Estrellita   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c     Sport, 12 pitches, 1200'   El Potrero Chico : Las Estrellas (The Stars)
El Sendero Diablo (The Devil's Path)   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 6 pitches, 600'   The Outrage Wall : Bronco Bowl
Pangea   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   El Potrero Chico : Las Agujas (The Spires)
Don Quixote   5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Virgin Canyon : Lower Virgin
Time Wave Zero   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 23 pitches, 2300'   El Potrero Chico : Time Wave Buttress
Yankee Clipper   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 15 pitches, 1500'   El Potrero Chico : La Selva (Jungle Wall)
Celestial Omnibus   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 70'   The Outrage Wall : Bronco Bowl
Mothership Connection   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 2 pitches, 240'   The Outrage Wall : Outrage Wall Proper
Surfer Rosa   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ E6 6c     Sport, 90'   El Potrero Chico : The Surf Bowl
Habanero/Time for Livin'   5.13 8a 29 X- E7 6c     Sport, 6 pitches, 600'   The Outrage Wall : Outrage Wall Proper
Browse More Classics in Mexico

Featured Route For Mexico
Milking the kneebar rest after the super steep lower half.

Nosferatus 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b  North America : Mexico : ... : Tecolote Cave
This is a killer route with steep moves from tufa to tufa to a final big move at the top before the anchor. Good use of drop knees, kneebars and heel hooks will make this route pretty reasonable. If you don't use these techniques then your in for a massive pump and probably some air time....[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Mexico Slideshow Add Photo
the new rock climbing guidebooks of Mexico. 130 areas included (sport,trad,multipitch,boulder,dws)
BETA PHOTO: the new rock climbing guidebooks of Mexico. 130 ar...
Erik Harz and I on P9 of the South Face IV 5.10c R 1,600', El Gran Trono Blanco, Baja California Norte
Erik Harz and I on P9 of the South Face IV 5.10c R...
Pico de Orizaba, Mexico
Pico de Orizaba, Mexico
Made me feel better about my Whillans. B.C. Mexico 1988
Made me feel better about my Whillans. B.C. Mexico...
John, still with the Swami in 1988. B.C. Mexico
John, still with the Swami in 1988. B.C. Mexico
Gavriel J. bouldering in Catavinea desert, Mexico
Gavriel J. bouldering in Catavinea desert, Mexico
Joel on the first part of La Gripa 11d in the near climbing area near Monterrey Mexico La Cueva Del Oso.
Joel on the first part of La Gripa 11d in the near...
Caught Mr. Stannard multi-tasking. First route of the morning. B.C. Mexico 1988
Caught Mr. Stannard multi-tasking. First route of ...
Eddie Bebout leading 5.10 slab, John Stannard - belay c.1988. The place that cannot be mentioned (it's seekrit!) B.C. Mexico.
Eddie Bebout leading 5.10 slab, John Stannard - be...
Same trip. Glenn Short down below. 1988 B.C. Mexico.
Same trip. Glenn Short down below. 1988 B.C. Mexic...
El Pico de Orizaba, 18,701 ft, is the highest peak in Mexico and the third highest peak in North America.
El Pico de Orizaba, 18,701 ft, is the highest peak...
piedra pintada is the main developed area with three routes all in the 5.11 -5.12 range. <br />it is believed the army developed the area
BETA PHOTO: piedra pintada is the main developed area with thr...
Eddie making progress. Glenn Short walking out of frame lower left. B.C. Mexico 1988
Eddie making progress. Glenn Short walking out of ...
Comments on Mexico Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 28, 2014
By Anthony Anagnostou
From: nyc
Dec 27, 2008

it would be really great if an administrator could adjust the mexico page so that the climbing areas are grouped by state, or at least central/north/southern mexico..

By Hank Caylor
Administrator
From: Golden, CO
Dec 28, 2008

I'm on it Anthony.

By amps
Nov 29, 2010

here you go! there are some links from people talking about their experience at potrero at this time.... come and enjoy it as always!

www.youtube.com/turismonuevoleon#p/u/2/IDnvTIhUL8Y
www.motorcyclemexico.com/2010/11/ride-report-el-potrero-chic>>>
thedeal.cleansnipe.com/escape-winter-climbing-in-el-potrero->>>
blog.visitanuevoleon.travel/?p=3256#more-3256

be well

By kubes
From: Littleton, CO
Dec 7, 2010

A great resource for good climbing info for places in Mexico, including lots of other spots besides El Potrero is:
www.xpmexico.com

Click on the English button on the top left to change languages, then click guides for info on some nice spots. If you're down around Mexico City, go to Aculco! Sweet and quality basalt splitters very reminiscent of Paradise Forks.

By Royce
Dec 29, 2010

Hey - was wondering if anyone had information about outdoor bouldering in the state of Mexico City and nearby. Have tried escalando.net, which seems to have a fair bit of info - but have been frustrated trying to locate (the relatively few) boulders mentioned on that website. Any tips as to useful websites or email addresses much appreciated!

By Dmitriy Litvak
From: Pacifica, CA
Jan 31, 2011

Flying back to the states, do not put ropes or cams into your carry-on.
You will get turned around and will have to pack them into your luggage.

Potrero was very safe. Good time to visit it this year as the place is not busy at all. People not coming down probably due to the economy.

By David Kozak
Jan 9, 2012

I'm headed to Potrero in a few weeks and was wondering if anyone could point me to some new long routes (4 pitches or more)to do in the 5.9 to 12a category. "New" as in the past three years or so. Thanks!

By Lee Frazer
From: Durango, Colorado
Feb 27, 2012

El Potrero climbers...Flying into Monterrey Friday, March 2. Anyone else coming in then, and if so, want to share a taxi?

By Evan C
Jul 3, 2012

I want to climb, the family wants a tropical beach trip. Where should we go?

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Sep 1, 2012

Thanks Mike for making this area a bit more user friendly!!

By MaRey
From: Salty lake, Utah
Sep 3, 2012

Hello,
Just wanted to let everybody know that Potrero chico is safe and awesome.
We went in the beginning of August and it was amazing. pretty hot, but you definetly can chase the shade with the help of those beautiful 2000 ft limestone walls.
Check it out!
Magicedspotrerochico.com is a really good website for more info, and you can contact magic Ed for a shuttle.

By Mark Grundon
Sep 4, 2012

Hey David, Maybe a few months late but a four pitch route at 12a in El Salto that might interest you could be found here: elpotrerochicoguides.blogspot.com/2012/02/lawtons-route-el-s>>>

By MaRey
From: Salty lake, Utah
Sep 7, 2012

Hello administrator here's a link for a website that has a lot of info of climbing areas in the Jalisco area.
Puntomuerto.com.mx/

By amselby
Dec 22, 2012

Does anybody know about driving across the border if passport and registration will work or is the car title required?

By Josh McCoy
From: Joshua Tree
Jan 25, 2013

Registration works. Title not needed. I just drove in at Laredo three weeks ago without a problem.

By Patrick Mcfadden
From: Portland, OR
Jan 29, 2013

Is this Josh McCoy I picked up hitching in new Zealand? Small world. I am heading down to EPC next week. My plan was bussing from San Antonio. looking for beta on Mexico travel. Last Fri in hildago some twenty people went missing. Anyone have any comments on EPC or travel?

By oriol
From: Osséja
Jun 24, 2013

The new rock climbing guidebooks of Mexico on this website www.rockclimbing-mexico.com .Rock climbing guidebooks of Mexico (North and Central-South)

All the information to climb all around MEXICO. 130 climbing areas (sport, trad, multipitch, boulder, dws).

the guidebooks at WWW.ROCKCLIMBING-MEXICO.COM
the guidebooks at WWW.ROCKCLIMBING-MEXICO.COM
http/:www.rockclimbing-mexico.com www.rockclimbing-mexico.com

By Braulio Barahona
From: Boulder, Colorado
Apr 28, 2014

Hi everybody, I just moved to Boulder - I come from Mitla in Oaxaca (South of Mexico). You can find lots of information here: www.escalando.net/

Though, I think it would be nice to add some of the areas to Mountain Project, there are some crags in Oaxaca that are worth. I volunteer for adding them, let me know if it is possible.