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Mexican Picnic 

YDS: 5.12b/c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Topher Donahue
Page Views: 874
Submitted By: Cedar Wright on Apr 22, 2012
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Mexican Picnic 

This is a little known Castle Rock classic ferreted out by the prolific Topher Donahue that branches right off of Country Club Crack about thirty feet from the end of the first pitch, for about eighty feet of independent climbing. This really is one of the best pitches at Castle, but bring lots of slings to avoid rope drag at the crux which is the last move to the anchor.

About fifty feet up Country Club, move out right to a bolt. Clip the bolt with a long sling and then arrive on a ledge to the right of the Country Club first pitch anchor where you can place a stopper on a long sling to protect a traverse into a right-facing lie-back flake that goes at goey 5.11. Head up the flake to an anchor and clip it with a long sling and make delicate undercling traverse left to a bolt on the wild arete to the right of C.C. Punch it up the arete making crux moves out right of the crack to perfect jug at the anchor which is one bolt and a very cool thread.

You could also do a variety of other starts into this climb including the holdless and next to impossible Tourist Extravagance. For extra credit, link into it via the second ascent of Topher's wild looking "Skateboard Ramp" that heads leftt above the crux of Tourist through mysterious 5.13 stemming.


Protection 

You only need a small rack of thin pieces for this climb, as mostly you are clipping pins and a couple bolts with long slings, but make sure you have a #0 TCU for the crux at the end.


Location 

Start up Country Club Crack and move right after about 50 feet.



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By topher donahue
Apr 24, 2012

For the full 5.13 enchilada, start at the Water World dihedral right of Tourist Extravagance, go up 30'and traverse left across a burly undercling/jam, cross Tourist Extravagance above its bolt ladder, clip 2 bolts with some vertical yoga in the Skatepark scoop thing, and finish up the Mexican Picnic arete cracks.

For the mild-ish 5.11 tamale, climb the 5.11 section of Mexican Picnic from Country Club to the anchor at 30 meters, just before the upper 5.12 crux.

A 70 meter rope just makes the lower off from the top anchor.

By Ben Sachs
May 18, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

Fun and Exciting. Still cleaning up a bit.

By Scott Bennett
Sep 20, 2012
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b

What a wild route! It's definitely seeing a bit of action, judging from chalk, and seems plenty clean and safe.

By ChanVan
May 30, 2013
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b

Great line! Harder than it seemed at first. Placing the gear after the last bolt is pumpy, but it's there if you can hang around to find it - then all you have to worry about is the crux! Tons of slings are helpful.