The epitome of a Swiss alpine chill out spot. A playground of giant boulders scattered on a high green hill, with spectacular views of the Glarner alps and beyond, Mettmenalp is a special place worth a visit.
None of the routes are particularly long, but the high-quality rock, good variety from 3a to 8a, easy access, and stunning setting make it a popular place. Everything is bolted nicely.
The best overview is in the guidebook GLClimbs, and Plaisir Ost has the majority of the routes as well.
Camping is not allowed. ... you'll see some fire pits for grilling, and nobody seems to be policing it, but be aware that officially you shouldn't be spending the night up there.
Train to Schwanden, Glarus. Bus to Kies (only end May to end Sept), cable car (seilbahn) to Mettmen. Or hike up if you're hard core (~45 min).
Drive to Schwanden, follow signs to Mettmen up mountain road. Cable car or hike up.
From the cable car, walk up to the lake and down the path. Pass one turnoff which actually says 'mettmen' and head to the next, following the sign up left (east) to Berglimatt.
There may also be signs to Klettergarten Widerstein, as the climbing area is officially known.
7 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',3],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
Featured Route For Mettmenalp
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Typical scene, blocks d and e
Mettmen lake (Garichtisee) view
Evening frisbee game through the blocks