1. Climb the sequence through the rotten flakes, passing one bolt to a small ledge.(optional belay here). Trot up to the roof. Crank it using a wonderful series of steep knobs and edges. Head straight up easy rock, passing one bolt to kill the major run out, to the headwall. Look right for the Angell Falls belay.5.8
2. Climb up a slightly left to a bolt. #3 Camalot goes in hole up and left. Climb past hard move and bolt to tree anchor on summit. 5.10.
towards the right end of the wall, left of the perpetual wet streak is a small roof band. Start below the series of flakes leading to a weakness at the mid-right side of the roof.
Gear to #2 Camalot. Mostly TCU's and/or small Camalots. some bolts
|By Mike Reardon|
Sep 27, 2010
What a great route! Felt casual but definitely run out on the easy stuff. It is about 150 feet to the Angel Falls anchors.
|By David Knupp|
Mar 11, 2014
Did this route(I think), last Saturday, climbed thru the roof at the same place the pic shows. Great route, but next time someone gets on it(could be me), we need to put a hanger on the empty stud at the 2 bolt anchor. I hung a stopper on the stud to get a backup, but it is spooky to rap off that. Thanks
|By Sean Cobourn|
From: Gramling, SC
Apr 1, 2014
Yeah, somebody swiped a hanger at the belay. Not too cool.
From: western NC
Apr 1, 2014
Damn people. Gonna have to start bolting those things down....