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Mettle Detector 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c R

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Alan Nelson
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 359
Submitted By: Alan Nelson on Apr 1, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: Maroon - Unknown.
Blue - The Perfect 10.
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This is another case of "reading between the lines", tackling a thin crack and flake system in between the ancient trad standards "Chimney Route" and "Handcrack". The crux is the initial corner, protected by as much metal as you can stuff into the thin fissure in the back. The "S" rating comes from the mid-section, where the rock and pro aren't as good, even as the moves stepping left aren't as difficult. The upper flake is a straightforward hike to the anchor rings (shared with "Handcrack"). As a lead it will test your placement skills, as a toprope it is just plain fun.


Tiny wires to medium cams to a two bolt anchor with rings (shared with "Handcrack").

Photos of Mettle Detector Slideshow Add Photo
Just above the lower crux, shoulder jam, grunt section. <br /> <br />Photo credit:  Leo Paik.
Just above the lower crux, shoulder jam, grunt sec...
The real crux is getting over the bulbous bulge just above Leo.
The real crux is getting over the bulbous bulge ju...
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By Jason Haas
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 25, 2008
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Nice additon to the area, although it protects just fine with nuts and small Aliens - didn't use any RPs. Besides, that whole dihedral ends 10ft off the ground. This would probably only be 10c in Eldo.