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Routes in Metropolis Sector
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Blood Dries Darker S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Captain Confusion S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Metropolis S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Penultimate Man S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Shazam S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | Tommy and Mike Caldwell |
| Page Views: | 3,970 total · 16/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Apr 7, 2003 |
| Admins: | Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
Voluntary seasonal falcon closure notice for the Fortress of Solitude from February 15- July 31. The closures are route specific. The central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open areas of the main cave. Any routes east of the main cave remain open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The Forest Service has been very cooperative in establishing this plan; please be responsible.The specific routes to be closed are listed below with numbers from the Rifle/ Western Slope Wolverine Publishing guide book.
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
For the left aerie: The Sandman (not in guide) 5. Lois Lame 8. Blind Date. For the right aerie: Ironman (not in guide) Snake Woman (not in guide) 17. The Kalous Logan 18.The Fuck Up
-Bryan Gall
Access Issue: Closures from February 15- August 15
Details
The closures as of now are route specific. In the main cave of the Fortress the whole west wall, gothdrome, and east wall/ bat cave areas are closed with nesting sites above those areas. Only the central super routes (Daily Planet to Flex Luthor) are open. Once nesting has been determined routes may open. No new routing (noisy power drills) can happen during this time period even in the open area. Avoid loud noises if at all possible. Routes east of the main cave are open. Please no caching of gear on Forest Service land. The forest service has been great in working out a very climber friendly management plan please be responsible!
Description
This route, which was originally graded 5.12d, somehow worked its way down to 5.12b after Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, and Adam Stack began using it as the crag warm-up and got it ultra-dialed. Luckily, common sense prevailed before it hit 5.12a.
A more realistic consensus seems to have emerged somewhere in the 5.12c/d range, though I've also heard this called harder than The Eighth Day (5.13a) at Rifle and, alternately, 5.12c. I dunno. You be the judge. It's plenty hard.
This is the rightmost route in the Metropolis Sector and climbs the immaculate black/pink streak on Euro-quality stone. It tips just so slightly past the vertical but is at a good angle where you can use your feet and work with most of the micro-features on the rock. Start just above the juniper tree and climb up blocky rock to a first bolt left of the big chimney. Run it out to the second bolt (5.9 PG-13) on good holds, some of which are hollow. Above this the route is well-protected and bullet. You may be able to clip an intermediary bolt on the route just left, Shazam (5.12d), between bolts one and two with a long sling to keep you off the deck if a hold broke.
From here, the climbing stays tricky, sustained and engaging, with hard-to-find holds, funky laybacks, and micro-crimps on bullet black stone. The crux bit seems to be the very sustained climbing above the huge hueco, finessing up the shallow groove (50 feet of stemming and pimping). A final mini-roof caps the action. Two in-situ draws above this roof let you lower off with a 70-meter (a 60-meter just might work) if you've done the route before and/or had enough, as the climbing above is "merely" 5.11. It is, however, slabby, thin, tricky 5.11, so a true ascent goes all the way to the anchors at a no-hands ledge, 40 meters up.
Take in the view, then get down safely.
A more realistic consensus seems to have emerged somewhere in the 5.12c/d range, though I've also heard this called harder than The Eighth Day (5.13a) at Rifle and, alternately, 5.12c. I dunno. You be the judge. It's plenty hard.
This is the rightmost route in the Metropolis Sector and climbs the immaculate black/pink streak on Euro-quality stone. It tips just so slightly past the vertical but is at a good angle where you can use your feet and work with most of the micro-features on the rock. Start just above the juniper tree and climb up blocky rock to a first bolt left of the big chimney. Run it out to the second bolt (5.9 PG-13) on good holds, some of which are hollow. Above this the route is well-protected and bullet. You may be able to clip an intermediary bolt on the route just left, Shazam (5.12d), between bolts one and two with a long sling to keep you off the deck if a hold broke.
From here, the climbing stays tricky, sustained and engaging, with hard-to-find holds, funky laybacks, and micro-crimps on bullet black stone. The crux bit seems to be the very sustained climbing above the huge hueco, finessing up the shallow groove (50 feet of stemming and pimping). A final mini-roof caps the action. Two in-situ draws above this roof let you lower off with a 70-meter (a 60-meter just might work) if you've done the route before and/or had enough, as the climbing above is "merely" 5.11. It is, however, slabby, thin, tricky 5.11, so a true ascent goes all the way to the anchors at a no-hands ledge, 40 meters up.
Take in the view, then get down safely.
Photos
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