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Metro Sector
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Burly Boogie S 
Excuse Abuse S 
Graffiti Wisdom S 
Indecision S 
Metro S 
Peepshow S 
Pioneer Route S 
Punk's Not Dead S 
Rendezvous S 
Simple Simon S 
Voyeurism S 

Metro 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Louie Anderson, 2003
Page Views: 1,746
Submitted By: C Miller on Sep 28, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Just below the anchors on Metro (5.11a), Riverside...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Climb large, positive holds through bulging terrain to a distinct crux just past the 5th bolt as you traverse left above the lip of a small roof. Once past the crux the angle subsides for a bit and a combination of stemming and liebacking past blocky corners and flakes through progressively steeper terrain leads to another crux between the last bolt and the anchors.

Great climbing on this route which feels a lot like climbing at Owens River Gorge in the lower portion and a little like Tangerine Dream up high. Originally done with 8 bolts, which made it a bit more "heady" to lead, but now with the addition of two more bolts it's very well protected and a must do route for the grade.

Location 

Located on the right side of the Metro Sector with Voyeurism (5.12a) to the right and Peepshow (5.10c) to the left.

Protection 

10 bolts, open shuts


Photos of Metro Slideshow Add Photo
Dave just below the crux of Metro (5.11a), Riversi...
Dave just below the crux of Metro (5.11a), Riversi...

Comments on Metro Add Comment
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By veritus
From: redlands, ca
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

someone needs to add three or four MORE bolts.
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jul 13, 2008
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

The route does have more bolts than stated in the printed guide. I thought it was fairly safe all the way.
By Roberto
From: La Jolla, CA
Dec 4, 2009

Ehh, there are MUCH better 11's at the crag. Redrum...Violator...Exfoliator...Double Whammy...Delirious..Epiphany
By Tank
Mar 5, 2012

Good place to hide from the sun after its crested the cliff top. But there's an air-conditioner sized rock about 5 feet below the anchors that is REALLY close to coming off.. I know its the quarry, but this thing looks like its one bird-turd away from careening onto someone's domepiece. Also, there is a hold that appears to be undercling-worthy flake about 3 feet below the aforementioned death-rock that is about to pop off. You've been warned.
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Aug 13, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Louie who was on the route extensively in 2013 reported no loose blocks (I asked him Aug '14), so the problem block has probably been taken dealt with, but, as always you should always take care - it is a quarry after all.