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Metrics for measuring improvement over winter training cycle
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By Matt Bolt
From Lakewood
Nov 10, 2011
patrick, you take such great photos!

So I am starting my second Periodization Cycle (thanks to the rockprodigy and SCC). I was wanting to do an initial assessment at the beginning of the cycle to have something to measure progress against. I know I could use specific routes or boulder problems, but I want something that is a little more controlled and measurable.

My thought was to come up with a couple of metrics for each phase which I would measure at the beginning of the entire cycle and then again at the start of each subsequent phase. It could be interesting to see gains (or losses) for all three areas across each phase.

I have come up with a few, but I'm at a loss for a decent metric for the anaerobic endurance phase. What do you think of the ones I have come up with? And feel free to give feedback. The more metrics the better the evaluation.


Strength
Max weight added for a 5 sec one arm lock-off on rock rings
Max weight added for 5 sec dead hang on specific hangboard grips

Maximum Recruitment
Best campus ladder for each rung size. 1-2-3, 1-3-5, 1-4-7, etc.
Best double dyno for each rung size 1-2-3, 1-3-5, 1-4-7, etc.

Power Endurance
Number of trips laddering up and down campus board
Number of repeated laps on a wired outdoor overhung boulder problem (indoor routes change too often)


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By Monomaniac
Administrator
From Morrison, CO
Nov 10, 2011
Insurrection, 5.14c.  Photo Adam Sanders.

I think you have a good plan for AE. I would find a route, or bouldering traverse with no rest, and do an interval workout on it, with fixed recovery times. Then compare the # of repeats over the course of your cylce to quantify your improvement.


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By Brian S
Nov 12, 2011

I would advocate using actual climbs for benchmarks. There is nothing inherently not controlled or measurable about them. The climbs could be inside or outside. If you still live in Lakewood, you have access to CATS gym in Boulder. They won't change their holds over that time period.

Here are my benchmarks:

Power
Single hand movement with specified feet
3 move problem

Power Endurance
see Monomaniac reply

I would add a stamina benchmark:
Pick a set of 4 problems, Number of repeats of the set within 20 minutes


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By Dan Levison
From Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2011
personal photo

Good question. Non-sport specific metrics are difficult to translate to climbing performance. Campusing is great, but w/ time you get better (more efficient at campusing), which doesn't necessarily equate to impovements on rock (or plastic). Additionally, doing a climbing traverse (laps w/o rest is like redpointing (you don't get stronger -- just more efficient). It's a good question, -- net, net: gradually increase you volume and intensity, and you'll improve (or get injured)...


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