Reginald McChufferton wrote:
In answer to your question about how to avoid daisy falls when aid climbing. (If that's something you lose a lot of sleep over) 1) Don't fall. 2) Clip the rope off to your last piece before committing to the next one and make sure your belayer is paying attention. If you fall, the rope will catch you or at least absorb some impact before you reach the end of your daisy. You need an attentive belayer or if you're soloing you need to be mindful of the position of your chosen device. Adjustable daisies can be lengthened to allow the rope to do more/all of the work. 3) If you're trying to transition to a sketchy piece get low in your aiders on your last piece to ensure that you won't be factor 2ing onto your daisy if the new piece blows. Adjustable daisies make this much more practical because you can adjust them to only give you a wee bit of slack should the new piece blow before you have time to clean the aider/daisy off the last one. Like I said, not that hard. If you're factor 2ing onto your daisies you should probably think about taking up a different hobby. I don't care what your daisies are made out of they are NOT designed to be fallen on and this constant talk about nylon being "safer" than dyneema is really just mental masturbation. If you're counting on any static material to safely arrest your fall you are delusional.