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Metolius 3/4 Leather Gloves AND Trad rack size question
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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Feb 27, 2013
Top of Castleton

Talking about the ones with the leather on the back of the hand also.

My main reason for posting this is if the glove ever gets discounted dramatically?

Think you can crack climb in them and they would hold up (decently well)

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I recently acquired a lot more gear bc of an awesome freaking deal!

My g/f is saying I should sell some of it. I said I'll probably need it. Thinking about it, WILL I NEED ALL OF IT? So I'm asking for the exp of others that are well traveled!

Metolius - If I have 3 I have double tri lobe. 2 is 1 with tri lobe and singles are tri lobe.
00 - 1 grey
0 - 3 purple
1 - 3 blue
2 - 3 yellow
3 - 2 orange
4 - 1 red

BD C4's

1x - .4
4x - .5 - 3
3x - #4

2x - nuts

tons of slings

My question is, other than Indian Creek, how likely am I to need a quad set of bd's? 3x #4's? Or trips of Metolius?

My goal as a climber is to hit up as many different climbing areas and climb big walls so some aiding (eventually)



For all you gear heads this is what I've got in color @_@

Rack on top is what I bought -nuts
Bottom is what I already had

My Gear
My Gear


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By ZANE
From Cleveland, OH
Feb 27, 2013

If i listened to my girlfriend about me having too much gear i would have sold it all for a coach purse long ago. Keep it all.


Our the obligatory, I'll take it of your hands and put it to good use.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Feb 27, 2013
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

For general trad climbing purposes, you could prob sell about half of that. I rarely need more than doubles of stuff. You could make use of the extra in places like Indian Creek. Maybe for aid climbing having some more would be ok, but even then I've never carried 4 of everything.
I use the metolius gloves to belay in and aid climb in. I do sometimes pull out free moves and end up jamming in the gloves, but it is not ideal IMO. They've held up decently well.


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By Crag Dweller
From New York, NY
Feb 27, 2013
My navigator keeps me from getting lost

I don't know many people who have or have ever needed quadruples. The occasions when you need that many of one size are rare. The occasions when you do and can't rely on your partner to come through with 1 or 2 of each size - even rarer. Not counting Indian Creek, of course.

If you do end up selling some of it, I'm looking to buy C4s #1-4.


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By Alex Mitchell
From Cincinnati, OH
Feb 27, 2013
Me Climbing

Rack of doubles will cover pretty much anything. And if not your partner usually has a rack also. Better yet use your partners rack. That way if you have to bail its not your gear!


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By S Denny
From Carbondale, CO
Feb 27, 2013

I'd keep it all... you'll use it in the desert and in aid climbing.

if you're really strapped sell one .5-4 set and keep triples and all the small stuff


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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Feb 27, 2013
Me on Supercrack

I like having quads of C4's, but then the creek is my favorite place. If it were me I would get rid of all the metolius except the master cams and buy enough master cams so that I had doubles from orange to blue and maybe one purple. Below blue Metolius I prefer ball nuts. I'd get rid of one of the sets of BD nuts (& all above #10) & buy some DMM alloy offsets (maybe some brass too). A black, pink, & red tri-cam might be nice too. If you need more $ to round out the rack, then sure, let the C4 quads go.

Gloves? Tape for cracks www.highinfatuation.com/blog/how-to-tape-for-crack-climbing->>>. Maybe a pair of hand jammies for routes with a little jamming but mostly other stuff. Harbor freight for belay gloves www.harborfreight.com/leather-industrial-work-gloves-5-pairs>>>


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By bevans
Feb 27, 2013

i would recommend not climbing cracks in your belay gloves.

ymmv.


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By bearbreeder
Feb 27, 2013

sell the GF ... keep the rack

a good rack will last you decades with reslinging

a GF wont generally ... and its not like you can send em in to BD/Metolius to get buffed up

;)


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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Feb 28, 2013
Top of Castleton

Showed the gf some of the comments and she thinks that some of you may have had poor relationships with controlling girls haha.

Aside from that. I have been using a double rack for a couple years and yep, haven't really need much more BUT as Jack Jones said, I do already like the desert climbing. Spent a month and a half in Indian creek before I even knew how to jam! Will forever love that place. I'm not tight on money.

I esp like the comment from MTKirk because I want a rack for it all! But I need some explanation on why drop the Tri-cam? I have really enjoyed the master cams but I've placed the tri-cams in some great spots! I've never used ball nuts. At that size do they hold more weight? (I haven't researched and prob will even if you answer) DMM brass?

What about a couple friends 1.5 or even aliens, mastercams compare to aliens?

Thanks all


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By Ray Pinpillage
From West Egg
Feb 28, 2013
Cleo's Needle


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By frankstoneline
Feb 28, 2013

Sell all the nuts, buy a set of metolius nuts, a set of DMM alloy offsets and a set of brass offsets.

If it was me, I'd pare down the big stuff, probably sell one or two of the 4's and buy a 5 if I had any aspiration for the wide.

As has been said before, doubles will get you through almost anything that isnt in the desert or aid. I'd keep triples or quads of stuff I liked climbing, for me thats fingers, so I'd keep lots of stuff from metolius blue to BD.75, but realistically if you arent hurting for the cash hang onto it.


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By MTKirk
From Billings, MT
Feb 28, 2013
Me on Supercrack

Ezekiel Thornton wrote:
Showed the gf some of the comments and she thinks that some of you may have had poor relationships with controlling girls haha. Aside from that. I have been using a double rack for a couple years and yep, haven't really need much more BUT as Jack Jones said, I do already like the desert climbing. Spent a month and a half in Indian creek before I even knew how to jam! Will forever love that place. I'm not tight on money. I esp like the comment from MTKirk because I want a rack for it all! But I need some explanation on why drop the Tri-cam? I have really enjoyed the master cams but I've placed the tri-cams in some great spots! I've never used ball nuts. At that size do they hold more weight? (I haven't researched and prob will even if you answer) DMM brass? What about a couple friends 1.5 or even aliens, mastercams compare to aliens? Thanks all


I'm a Tri-cam fan but if you mean TCU's I've found I can get a master cam in just about any place a TCU will work, and if the placement is thinner than a mastercam I'm happier with a nut. But hey if you like the tcu's keep 'em (seems like 1 each blue, yellow & orange would be plenty though).

I like Ball Nuts because they are more secure in the smaller sizes. They have more suface area & almost twice the expansion of the smaller cams. I aid the soft sandstone around Billings & it's almost impossible to get a a purple mastercam to even support body weight, yet even the tiny #1 ball nut works fine. Yes for aiding they're slower than a cam, but at those sizes you'll be hooking anyway & using nut's/ball nuts for pro (unless on soft rock then you'll have to advance on the nuts/ball nuts as well).

Offset nuts are great, I especially like the HB/DMM's because they have insets that grab crystals in the rock. Offsets will work in most places a regular nut will & many places where other nuts won't. They are harder for your second to clean, so when things are pretty straight forward you'll be better off just throwing in a BD nut.

Can't help you with a comparison to aliens/friends/totems I just don't have enough experience with them.

If you like the creek make sure you keep the quad C4's, you'll make lots of friends with that rack!

Above all, don't sell any gear unless it is to raise money to buy more gear!


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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
Mar 5, 2013
Top of Castleton

MTKirk wrote:
I'm a Tri-cam fan but if you mean TCU's I've found I can get a master cam in just about any place a TCU will work, and if the placement is thinner than a mastercam I'm happier with a nut. But hey if you like the tcu's keep 'em (seems like 1 each blue, yellow & orange would be plenty though). I like Ball Nuts because they are more secure in the smaller sizes. They have more suface area & almost twice the expansion of the smaller cams. I aid the soft sandstone around Billings & it's almost impossible to get a a purple mastercam to even support body weight, yet even the tiny #1 ball nut works fine. Yes for aiding they're slower than a cam, but at those sizes you'll be hooking anyway & using nut's/ball nuts for pro (unless on soft rock then you'll have to advance on the nuts/ball nuts as well). Offset nuts are great, I especially like the HB/DMM's because they have insets that grab crystals in the rock. Offsets will work in most places a regular nut will & many places where other nuts won't. They are harder for your second to clean, so when things are pretty straight forward you'll be better off just throwing in a BD nut. Can't help you with a comparison to aliens/friends/totems I just don't have enough experience with them. If you like the creek make sure you keep the quad C4's, you'll make lots of friends with that rack! Above all, don't sell any gear unless it is to raise money to buy more gear!


I've been doing my research and am now looking to broaden my rack thanks all the advice given. Much appreciated.


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By Christiney
From Wheat Ridge, CO
May 2, 2013
Horseman

+1 for Akron! I used to live there! And in Cuyahoga Falls.

But Cincinnati is much closer to the Red! (Further to the New, but Cincinnati is closer to the Red than Akron is to the New)


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By Brad M
May 3, 2013

Throw out the stoppers and get DMM wallnuts. This goes for everyone still using those things.


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By Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
May 3, 2013
Bocan

ZANE wrote:
If i listened to my girlfriend about me having too much gear i would have sold it all for a coach purse long ago. Keep it all. Our the obligatory, I'll take it of your hands and put it to good use.


Right...do you tell your GF how many shoes she should keep and sell?

Have that convo and you won't have to sell your rack.


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By Ezekiel Thornton
From Akron, Ohio
May 3, 2013
Top of Castleton

I work in Cuyahoga Falls. How long ago since you moved. I haven't lived here to long but maybe you know a couple people I know.

Cinci would be nice since so close to the red. For here it's about the same distance (+1 hour to the red) so that makes it..nice?..Wish it was 2.5 hours, longer sundays hahahahahahahahahahahhahahahahhahahhahahhahhaahaahahaahhahah


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By Dobson
From Butte, MT
May 3, 2013

Climbing cracks with gloves on is something I only do in the winter. Ice tools are usually involved at that point. It's not a good way to climb. It better be really cold to make gloves worth it.

Toughen up your hands and improve your technique, and you'll be able to save even the tape just for hard offwidth.


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