Metolious offsets vs. offset Aliens

Pro's and cons?. I'm looking to buy some offsets specifically for Yosemite this summer. I hear the offset Aliens are the best thing ever, but they certainly are pricey.

bsteve2 wrote:Pro's and cons?. I'm looking to buy some offsets specifically for Yosemite this summer. I hear the offset Aliens are the best thing ever, but they certainly are pricey.

For the most part, they are only useful in flairs and pinscars. They are specialty pieces. However, Yosemite has tons of pin scars. I have climbed entire aid pitches using nothing but offset nuts and cams. I use the offset cams more than the normal cams on aid.

I have offset Aliens as well. Aliens are a bit better. But offset Master Cams work just fine.

Yosemite eats up offset stoppers, so start there if you haven't already. DMM. I have a set of offset power cams (u stem) and while the head is not as narrow as either the MasterCams or Aliens, they still work great in Yosemite. They are also super cheap. Colorado crack gear has them on sale for like $45 from time to time. No complaints about the offset metolius u stems whatsoever.

Offset Mastercams have gone on sale within the last 6 months for $42-45/ea, if price matters. Just keep a lookout between the dirtbag deals, spadout and google shopping.

20 kN wrote: For the most part, they are only useful in flairs and pinscars. They are specialty pieces.

All depends on where you frequently climb. Some areas have very few flaring placements and there, yes, Offset cams can be a specialty piece. Other areas however, eat up Offset cams. Yes, Yosemite Aid routes are the classic example but there are many, many more places where I've loved the offset cam. I actually consider it a MUST HAVE piece for nearly all free climbing and it's the rare area where I DON'T bring at least a few offset cams. On a free rack you'll really only have 3-4 anyway.

Off the top of my head, I've loved offsets in : Squamish, Index, WA and other granite of WA, Lumpy Ridge, Lovers Leap, Yos., J-Tree (awesome there) and Taquitz. I've used them in Red Rocks but not as often.

I've owned and used both the Metolius and Aliens. (both CCH/Fixe and Totem) On the really smooth granite (Yos) I think there is a difference and the softer Alien lobes "bite" just a bit better. On rougher textured rock (J-Tree) I never thought is was that big a difference.

If you're just looking for a few cams to supplement a Free rack 3 Fixe or Totem offsets (B/G. G/Y. Y/R) are your best bet. If you're looking to double up on smaller sizes (maybe you only have singles ) and you climb in areas that tend to have the pods and flares a run of the Metolius Offsets would be worth considering. In J-Tree I run a set of Met Offsets 00/0 to 1/2 because there are LOTS of flaring placements there.

Since you are from boulder you can afford to buy both the Mastercam Offsets and the CCH Hybrids. So you should. I have TCU Offsets and 1 Totem Basic Hybrid and 1 Mastercam Offset. I like them all, but I most like to place the Metolius Mastercam Offset because I'm less worried about it getting thrashed due to the harder metal used. Pin scars are glassy smooth so the Aliens are more likely to hold. So, like I said, since you can afford it buy both.