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Heart Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Aorta 
Corner Crack 
Heart Attack 
Meteor Shower 

Meteor Shower 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Smoot, Hank Armantrout, Les Ellison, 1983
Season: Winter
Page Views: 350
Submitted By: Ryan Brough on Dec 9, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Meteor Shower climbs the big dihedral.

Description 

Easy climbing leads to a sandy ledge where the routes diverge. With some interesting moves, you gain an even larger, sandy ledge where the dihedral begins. From here, the climb sews up nicely, making for a speedy ascent. It is more of a face climb here than a crack climb. This route may have gotten its name from some of the loose rock that surprises your belayer. The crux is a small roof pull (5.7) followed by a short traverse to the Heart Attack (5.4) exit. If you don't figure out the moves here, you might mumble something about bags full of sand. Note: the Ruckman guide rates Meteor Shower as 5.8.


Location 

All routes on the Heart Wall share the same easy start directly under the big, right-facing dihedral. Meteor Shower climbs the dihedral. Walk off to the west between the Heart and Guano Walls.


Protection 

Standard rack, doubles of red and gold camalots are nice. A #4 camalot protects the crux. No fixed gear; no anchors at the top.



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