Meteor Shower (first pitch) 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Steve Kanoza, Andy Peters |
| Submitted By: | Luke Bertelsen on Apr 6, 2005 |
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BETA PHOTO: Overhead of new routes at Hairpin
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Description Of the new routes at left hand walll this is in the middle between Scorpion King and a "project". The first pitch begins at a grungy crack that is near vertical. The remainder of the route is slabby rock similar to the other routes on the left hand wall. The route is bolted very well and the first 20 feet of the route are very fun. Following that it is becomes less interesting. I felt the first pitch was more 5.9 than easy 5.10, but I can not comment on the second pitch as we did not climb it. I estimated the entire route to be around 180 ft. in length.
Protection 8 bolts to chain anchors- 1st pitch4 bolts to chain anchors- 2nd pitch
BETA PHOTO: First move of first pitch of Meteor Shower.
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setting up top rope the first pitch
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first pitch
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skeleton lead
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entering the crux
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| Comments on Meteor Shower (first pitch) |
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By Don Laury
Jan 5, 2006
rating: 5.9
| Has a nice interesting 5.9 start at the crack, and a couple good moves after, then gets 5.5 slab after the 4th bolt all the way to the anchors. I didn't do the second pitch. The "project" about 5 yards to the right of this appears to be complete now. It had about a 5.8+ start (thin slab moves, not crack), some sharp crimpers, then turns slabby 5.6 soon after 2nd bolt, goes to same anchors as Meteor shower. We were taking a new climber for his first time outside, and I thought these were some good climbs for that, especially with the first pitch of Scorpion King around the corner for a warm-up. |
By Vincent Greene
Jan 19, 2007
| The start of this route has changed significantly. There used to be a big block right of the crack. I distinctly remember grabbing that block and climbing up onto it to clip the second bolt. That block is now sitting on the ground 10 feet from the base -- I am sure glad that didn't happen while I was standing on it! I do like the start of the route much better now. |
By Andrew Ryder
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 4, 2007
rating: 5.9+
| Avoid this climb after a heavy rainstorm. We got to the base of this route shortly after the floods in summer '06 and found a wet, slimy, ant-filled crack. Yuck! |
By John Hannah
From: Tucson
Apr 12, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| This route is well protected - excellent bolt placement and some fun climbing on the first 30-40 feet. Gets much easier up top. |
By CALEB ANDERSON
Nov 19, 2009
| I climbed this today from the ground up, the second pitch is extremely fun and the roof move at 150 ft makes things interesting + the fact your belay man is out of sight to say the least. I also am one who dislikes raggin on ratings and would keep this what it was fa-ed at, and that is a .10a if you thinks its less take a stab at it as one single pitch of 150 like its supposed to be climbed. |
By AZ Spray
May 15, 2010
| Great climb. It diffidently not a 5.10a. Even if you lead it in one pitch. Just like Lemmon. Everything is a soft rating. This is more like 5.8+ |
By Adam Block
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 8, 2013
rating: 5.9+
| Just an FYI there is no first bolt (well, the bolts there, no hanger) on this climb anymore. I personally think that makes sense as there's a crack that will swallow up gear right there and the crux is protected by a bolt. Just be aware that what is now the "first" clip is a slight runout and you may want to bring some gear if you want to protect it. |
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