Meteor Rhoadblock 

I'd just like to say that although it looks like I'm getting a no-hands kneebar on this climb, it is only for demonstration purposes and that I neither need nor endorse the use of kneebars while climbing (most of the time).

Don't worry Peter, we all know that you are, in fact, a tough guy, and that tough guys do not use kneebars!

This climb does not look very good from the ground, but it is sustained and is the best short 5.12 I have done in Boulder Canyon. It would also make a great first 5.12. None of the moves are all that hard, good clipping stances, and the bolts are very close together.

This is a great route for your first 5.12. I'm trying to make it my first 5.12. The protection is excellent - you're nearly on a toprope for most of the climb. I really like the variety of moves on this pitch.

The hand jam move at the top is the crux for me. I recommend taping up your left hand. If this move is at your limit (as it is for me), if you fall off this move you'll get a big of a gobie on the back of your hand that will hinder further attempts. Since taping for one jam (there are two other jams that I use on this route, but no tape is necessary there) is a hassle, I wear a Spyder Mitt on just my left hand - sort of the Michael Jackson look. It works great and makes the crux hand much more comfortable and solid. Of course, some of my friends claim this is aid...

I climbed this route today and had the same experience Bill had. Once you get the jam there is this little something stabbing you in the back of your hand. I myself had no spyder mitt, so for just one moment, I decided to be like that Sven guy that can't pump himself enough on this website, and [very briefly]became more manly. This fleeting infusion of "Sven-focus" allowed me to make the painful pull to the crimp. Bill, when you get back from Yosemite you must make your hand more "Sven-like" but only for just one moment, and the route shall fall! I would suggest a hammer and a small pebble to pound into the back of your hand as initial "Sven-training" for this route.

I climbed this once a long while back, and unlike the rest of the people talking about this route, I didn't find the top the crux. While that move was really tough, the move that help me up again and again was getting onto the slabby block about 1/2 way up the climb. Maybe I'm just not flexable enough.

I actually find no aspect of this route difficult and feel 5.11d is more appropriate. I also feel that the top move is not really painful and using a spyder mitt to do it is gay! Not that there is anything wrong with that.

Skip this comment if you don't want to read beta. I think Its a tricky route for an onsight, but not too bad for the redpoint because you can really learn to milk the rests on this thing if you want to (or in my case need to). No-hands rests are possible at the 3rd, 4th, and 6th bolts, although climbing into the slot at the 6th bolt feels like cheating so I try to avoid it. The hard move at the 5th bolt (what Aron is talking about) is made considerably easier by using an undercling with the left hand -- it never has chalk on it so most people must not do it this way. The hand jam at the 7th bolt is made considerably easier by using a knee bar with right leg to brace the left knee against the left wall. Using these tricks, I don't even need to pretend I'm that Sven dude.

Update 8/16/2007: the secret undercling at the 5th bolt has broken off making this move harder.

Since I'd rather not go pay for a guidebook (sorry, Bob), would someone like to post the location of this climb on the wall in less ambiguous terms?

Hey Peter, what's the argument against kneebars? Sometimes they really help. I know it's been three years since you made the above comment, but you see I am new to these modern word and picture making boxes known as computers.yours truly,unfrozen caveman climber

I have nothing against kneebars, except I suck at them. The comment above was in jest.

To repeat a previous question....Where is this climb?

Mamamia, 1-plan good for send too? for 1-plan sending, climbing 1 climb, but only 1-time, no? then climbing 4 climbs, but only 1-time each. In this way, climbing 1-climb, 1-plan, 4-plan, is very. You will find this out.

For those looking for a little more interest on this excellent route, try it placing gear. I skipped the first two bolts easily with a 1.5 friend at the first crux. I clipped the next two bolts and then placed a good stopper before the reach to the reinforced hold. The next bolt could be skipped but I clipped it and then placed a #3 friend in the last slot at the lip to bypass the last bolt. So in all 3 out of 7 bolts were used and two of these could probably be skipped as well. All the pieces I placed were really good.

Nice work PB! "Retro-trad" is a classy evolution of the game, countering the forces of gridbolting & general dumbing-down unfortunately so prevalent these days. Kudos to Bob D. and others who still believe in the value of 'mixed' bolts&gear pitches. Placing gear is fun, and high-stakes physics problems with weakening forearms are still at the core of our freaky, wonderful sport....I think.

Have a burning urge to only establish 3 per bodylength bolt ladders? Do us all a favor, and please stay inside.

Just 2 cents.

3 or four years late but here none the less, The location: This route is in the middle of the wall, it is the fourth route from the right side, and follows the left side of a prominent arete to the top.

Really great. Super well protected, good for folks starting to lead 12s. The glued piece near the top was definitely appreciated.

This climb is much better than it looks and well worth doing - especially if you need a short approach. It is quite beta intensive and would be a very hard onsight. The hand jam at the very top is less painful if done with the right hand. This also sets up well for the top out.