|354 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200 feet|
|Consensus: ||5.11b [details]|
|FA: ||Ed Williams,Shannon Millsapps, Tim Snyder|
|Season: ||late summer, fall, spring|
|Submitted By: ||gneiss pirate on Oct 11, 2008|
There is a story behind the name. Ask ole Ed. He will give it up.
Located at the end of "The Holy Slabbeth" ledge at a pine tree and up and right of "Brain Damage".
Move up and left from the tree placing small gear in a right facing slot. Make delicate and hard moves(crux) past 2 bolts to a great horizontal. Climb face protecting a hollow flake to a roof. Gear here. Pull the roof and climb past 3 bolts(5.11a) following the path of least resistance to a stance with small gear. Move right then up to a 2 bolt anchor.
2nd pitch. Ed Williams, Shannon Millsap
Move up and trending left to eventually join the 2nd pitch of Hocus Focus. Finish at the Hocus Focus anchor.
P1 5 bolts, double c3s or tcus to orange. Camalots to green. Possible small tri-cams.
P2 Same as above with camalots to yellow.
|Comments on Metal Meltdown
From: western NC
Oct 20, 2008
Cool route with a good name. The climbing on the upper part is excellent. The 2nd bolt is still a spinner though...
Apr 5, 2009
Nice long, interesting route. The first pitch has great variety and personally feels harder than Brain Damage. I would call it 11b anyday.