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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Mesresha  

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: open project
Page Views: 1,553
Submitted By: bradley white on Jun 24, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

Mesresha[(def:external intervention causes one to forget) Amharic]
The left side of Sesame Street is an extremely inclined ceiling. Climb up the left corner to reach hand holds that access the ceiling. Continue directly up. Passage is made by the protruding knobs at the third and after fourth bolt requires holding onto a rail. Easier climbing after the ceiling ends (5.7-8) up face to the anchors at a foot ledge.
The grade of the climb could change due to some flexible hand holds. Likely the grade will go up not down.


Location 

Between 'Metamorphosis' and 'Sesame Street' is the overhanging wall. Climb easy fifth class to the large ledge with trees below where 'Sesame Street' begins to be steep. Belay from one of trees. Start up left side inside corner (mossy) or start east of the moss on the fractured rock ramp. Climbers can continue up 'Metamorphosis' or 'Sesame Street', after belaying at foot ledge. A temporary rappel anchor was in place (someone stole it). A permanent rappel anchor is set up now.


Protection 

6 bolts to a two bolt anchor on a foot ledge.



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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 31, 2014
By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 24, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

This route is named after my son's middle name. The direct translation is "causes to forget". However, in the Ethiopian culture the word has a Strong meaning and is also a name, never lightly given. It means "something which helps one forget the pain of ones life and/or past". Many names in this Country are also part of their spoken/written language. So here is some new information on a country which is still percieved by many American's to be nothing more than a unimportant, uneducated, and impoverished 3rd world country. I'm bitting my tounge before this becomes a blog...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jun 24, 2012

i've looked at this but i was afraid it would be to fragile... i hope it stays together... it is a nice face...

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jun 25, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

yep, origonally it looked to be 10 to solid 11ish. Ryan took off 90% of the loose holds. Then we speculated it to be 12+ish. When Brad and I returned to bolt the second half he broke off a bit more but nothing that changes its grade. Then I worked out all but 4-5 feet of it's moves. Today I resolved the crux sequence and broke off 4 more small edges no larger than 2 inches each . After taking some lead falls we relized the line (that I can climb with some work)is more to the right. It will need another bolt horizontal to what is now the 4th bolt and 2.5 ft to the right. All the moves and it's sequence have been done. There are no more (crossing my fingers) holds likely to break. In my subjective opinion the route is 20 ft of V6 then 30 ft of enjoyable 5.8. We will be returning to get rid of a few more plate size flakes that border the direct line. Bradley wisely chose to place the bolts close in the bottom section where the rock is softer and we'll be replacing them with eye bolts in the near future.

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Jul 3, 2012

Are you going to leave both of the lined bolted or remove the bolts in the left hand variation, so there is not a cluster of bolts?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 3, 2012

i mean this as a sincere question not a wise crack but how is this a "great" (3 star) route if the holds wont stay on the wall? is it holding up to that standard even after all the breakage?

i fell in love with a fragile route at yellow knife at about the same grade... while checking it out on TR i had many holds break off... though the line could have been climbed i decided not to bolt it since the rock was so fragile... always a heart breaker...

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 3, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

yeah a bit of a heart breaker...we'll decide what to do..if it contines to break and just wont go we'll remove the bolts and clean it up

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 4, 2012

I checked out that wall just to the left of Metamorphosis pretty extensively also, years ago, and came to the conclusion it would only offer a pretty squeezed in line with a short hard section and then finish up an easy squeezed line between Sesame and Metamorphosis, or join in to one of them. The two lines on either side are pretty sweet and don't need some piece of crap squeezed up between them. Plus, the fact that it would need a bunch of glue to keep the holds on made me decide against doing it. If somebody really needs to climb it, they should just set up a TR on it, IMO. I'm all for people's self expression and varied styles of new routing, but, frankly, I cringe when I read about you guys new routing at Rumney. Between what went on at Green's and the scattershot on lead bolting up squeezed, uncleaned choss piles, the expression "Somebody should take their drill away from them" comes to mind. Good grief! Can't you guys recognize that you don't know what you are doing and hold off making a mess of the place? Rumney is pretty close to being climbed out. New routers are going to have to be very circumspect in their new routing, or the results will be a real downgrading of the Rumney experience. There, I have said it.

By E thatcher
From: Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
Jul 5, 2012

After seeing this route in person today, I feel compelled to politely add my voice to the crowd suggesting this route be removed. If not in its entirety then at least one of the lines of bolts. As stated before, its proximity detracts from Sesame Street, its on rotten rock, and what has not been previously mention is that it's directly behind a tree. Having worked climbs in this grade range, I know I personally would not get on it simply because of the factor of falling into the tree, regardless of the routes other flaws...

By Michael Z.
Jul 5, 2012

These routes/discussions at Rumney always make for an interesting afternoon read ;)

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 10, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

We will be removing the bolts to the left.
It can't be top ropped due to the overhang.
After falling at every bolt I still have not hit the tree.
The route goes along the three, red taped, bolts and then up the face.
I am waiting for bad weather/less climbers to remove the rest of the loose rock (not needed for the moves).
The route is not squeezed in, does not intersect with either routes, and the anchor is below where the other routes bottle neck (so even if there was a different climber on each of the three routes, at the same place, they would each be able to climb without interference.)
This is actually a good route and is somewhere in the 12+ range.
It is not 100% finished yet so please give us the chance to complete it. (We’ll remove the tape when it is ready)

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 12, 2012

non applicable comments.

By James Otey
From: NH
Jul 16, 2012

While I applaud the effort of trying to establish new climbs at Rumney, this is an example of something that should have been left alone due to its proximity with neighboring climbs, and dangerous rock quality in a crowded area.

I also kindly ask that the bolts be removed.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 20, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

Really? The bolts, to the left of the now established line, I would vote to remove.
The Ball is in Bradleys qourt on that...

To Mark...You must understand that your prolific route development and raised status in The NH climbing community also means that your words are often taken as gospel. With this in mind a little more tact would go a long way. You are welcome to contact me at anytime to disuce your feelings on my routes and I'm sure your aware that I am easy to talk to and willing to work things out. I fear that many are influenced by comments on MP which often lead to great lines being avoided for no good reason (this line is good but not great)...just someones subjective opinion they've read. Please keep me out of any tension between you and Bradley.

The line itself is compleetly clean now and goes at 12+.
Beware of Lichen Fall though.
You don't hit the tree but I can understand that one could think that.

I will commend myself in not being disuaded by negative speculations about the route. No glue used...I've heard wisperings that many Rumeny routes are full of glue. It's also been said that this route would just fall apart due to the rock quality.
Yes, many holds broke right off, at least a heaping wheel burrow full.
I'd say the route started at 5.9 and through "ethical" cleaning and sticking to real rock became 5.12+.

I sense that anytime a new route goes up in Rumney the immediate reaction is: "No, how could this be!? Every route has been done and anything new has to be squeezed in. If not the route probably sucks and wasn't worth it" I can understand...everytime I go to Rumney I think "Man, if only there were more people and less routes, then I could truley enjoy The Rumney Expireance"
Sometimes I even catch myself in a furious state when I have to see another climber climbing on the same crag I'm climbing on. Would you believe that there are times I have literally had to make eye contact with another climber!? And I didn't even know them!

Again, cut me some slack here or at least go do the route so you have something tangable to comment on.
If only there were more Lee H.'s out there. I mean that. Thank You Lee for your support, for being you, and reserving speculations.

By Tristan Perry
Jul 20, 2012

This climb is so offensive to my climbing sensibilities that I or others like me will take action to pretty up the scene if things are not improved by the end of the summer.

If I was going to punish you for your poor taste, I would say you should take a picture of this route and hang it around your neck with string until it rots off in a couple of months.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jul 20, 2012

yes mike i will always be nice to you and anyone else that is nice to me... im glad you appreciate it... confrontation is not my way...

Might it be time for us to adopt an application process through the RCA for the bolting of new routes at rumney?... I would be happy to apply before i bust out my drill to avoid this kind of ugly discusion in the future?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 20, 2012

I hope we don't have to come to that any time soon. We can avoid that if we are not completely tone deaf to our fellow climbers and are open to listening if a bunch of our piers express dismay at our actions.

By S. Neoh
Jul 20, 2012

Is it still C0?
If so, what is it? Pulling on a draw?

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

It is not CO anymore..I didn't put this page up so I can not change the CO.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 21, 2012

Rumney the 'Snake Experience'. I nicknamed all the derogatory comments together the inquisition. They claim I did wrongful purposeful bolting. I the opposition must then be the sorcerer to the inquisition. I am not the defendant. The two bolts full of emotionally charged anger are gone. The bolts remaining are staying and perhaps will be strongly disliked. Spring loaded bolts will likely fit the two bolt holes backed up with the other bolts. These hard leads indeed will be climbed regularly someday.

By twellman
Sep 12, 2012

After seeing this route the other day in person, I don't see the big problem with it, as long as the potential loose rock has been thoroughly cleaned, which it sounds like Mike took care of. Although I don't think it'll get much traffic (a 12+ in a sea of classic 10's, with classic 12+'s just up the hill), it is pretty discrete, hiding behind the trees there (except for the red tape! Mike, did you send it yet?). If it's a squeeze, then so are Techno and Aquarius, but no one is going to complain about those! There are, without a doubt, worse routes that have been bolted at Rumney.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 12, 2012

Has this been lead cleanly yet, Mike, and is it now open for re-ascents?

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Sep 14, 2012
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

I have not been back on this route for a few months now. With sending season here I'll be getting on it as soon as I can find someone to belay me on it...any takers? I have climbed it with 2 hangs but not got the official send yet

By S. Neoh
Sep 14, 2012

Mike, if our paths were to cross near this route, I will be glad to belay you on this route. Often, I warm up on Metamorphosis and Clusterphobia at the beginning of my day at Rumney and finish up on Underdog, Far From Feral, etc, at the end of the day.

Good luck.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 18, 2013

I can't figure out if this is a project, open project or has been cleanly lead free. In the ticks is
"Mike C Robinson Jul 21, 2012 all clean and rp"
but Sept 4 2012 he says " I have climbed it with 2 hangs but not got the official send yet"

Is this sent and open for business, Mike, or are you still working on it?

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 18, 2013

confusing, yes, but i was up there the other day and it was still "red tagged"... i spoke to mike in the fall and he said he was still working it... i don't imagine he has had a chance to finish it up over the winter...

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

I will be back on this project starting this week.
I will expect to have it wrapped up by Mid May 2013 at the latest.
The route is very important to me. I really have appriciated the many climbers stronger than I who have given me the time to send it.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

After being back on the route a few more times this past week I'd say there is still a bit of cleaning to be done on the upper section.
A few flexing but not needed holds will be removed to prevent mistaken rock fall in the future (the largest being 2"x6"). I expect to get this done once I have sent the route clean (by mid/end of May). Once done my plan is to do a final cleaning so it is in safe, clean, and in solid condition for any who want to climb it.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Jul 14, 2013

I put four stars on this climb because the route is not a BOMB, I came to this route too thank all of the folks that sent I contributed a great climb. I appreciate this very much since all I did was establish and clean the route of the most dangerous loose rock ground up crux ascent. I also was curious too see how the free ascent of it had been done yet. The rest upper section anchors were placed on top rope. A climber would have to be so far off route at crux area (far right of it) to touch one loose flake? I have not touched this flake and on the upper section after the crux there was/is? one or two semi loose rocks that are can be easily avoided. I didn't bother with them myself on the first complete ascent with Mike C. Robinson of a hanging dog ascent. Taking the draws off of this route this spring, Mike calling it lame was using a kindly word for these thieves. It also happened last year removing the anchor lowering biners, one of them expensive. I can understand the temptation to steal the anchor biners, but the lead draws was outright despicable and on another climb could be potentially life threatening. Maturity and respect needs to return too Rumney. There are my first ascents with hanging draws much of the time. I won't but I could put those routes back to how they were in the R category when they were first done. That would be just stupid and vengeful on my part. That goes against the grain of my morality to climbing.
I won't reply to this comment. Not doing a repeat of last year's comments.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 17, 2013

Yes, it would be stupid and vengeful, so why do you even bring it up as an implied threat? I don't know who removed the gear, but I would respectfully disagree with your description of the project not being a bag. With the bag meaning "avoid" here on MP, in my case it has a double meaning. Avoid, as it is a project.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 25, 2013
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

whoa...I'm slacking big time and need to send this route...

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Oct 23, 2013

Doing a total recall. I wanted to surmount the bulge for years. Glad it was still an opportunity available. Glad I climbed it and especially enjoyed excavating the loose rock. Nothing out of the ordinary here including I moved on from this, then to doing other things.
Intent to change anything, anywhere, too the way it was, is not a threat, its a wish. Climbers would go on a 'retreat'. This retreat would be for the very few. Most climbers would be frightened with no retreat. I won't bring up this subject again.

By Mike C. Robinson
From: Rumney, NH
Apr 8, 2014
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13

Any one who wants the FFA on this is more than welcome to give it a go

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
May 31, 2014

Jame's!