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> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley N Side
> B. El Capitan
> 3. Southeast Face
Mescalito
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British A3
Avg: 3.9 from 56
votes
Routes in 3. Southeast Face
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Atlantic Ocean Wall T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Aurora T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 |
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Born Under A Bad Sign T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A5 |
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Continental Drift T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Dawn Wall, The T 5.14c 8c+ 34 XI- 35 E9 7b |
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Eagle's Way T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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El Niño T 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Ephemeron T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4 |
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Hamas Fights For Freedom A5+ |
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Lost in America T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A4 |
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Lunar Eclipse T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A4 PG13 |
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Mescalito T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3 |
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Native Son 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Neptune T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A4+ |
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New Dawn T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3+ |
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North America Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C3 |
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Pacific Ocean Wall T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a A3+ R |
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Scorched Earth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A4 PG13 |
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Sea of Dreams T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A4 |
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Shortest Straw, The A4- |
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South Seas T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3+ |
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Tangerine Trip 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3+ |
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Tribal Rite T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3+ |
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Virginia 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3 |
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Wall of Early Morning Light T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A2+ |
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Zenyatta Mondatta A4- |
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Zodiac C3 |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 2800 ft (848 m), 26 pitches, Grade VI |
| FA: | Steve Sutton, Charlie Porter, Hugh Burton & Chris Nelson, 1973. FCA: Dave Dyess, A.C. Robertson, 1997 |
| Page Views: | 30,549 total · 144/month |
| Shared By: | Jeff G on Jul 21, 2007 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Hard to describe a 26 pitch route. You'll obviously want a topo but here is some basic info to get you started. Amazing route - one of the major highlights of my climbing career and one of the best experiences of my life. I highly recommend this line for a big El-Cap route without undue difficulty. You need to pay some dues on easier and smaller routes but you don't need to be an aid master or put your head on the chopping block for this one. I put a free rating of 9+ because you will do much better freeing a couple of the awkward chimney pitches instead of trying to aid them. The chimney on pitch 19 was especially awkward to aid, I had much better luck with freeing it. Lots of amazing pitches. No stand out crux but alot of spicy A/C2-3 pitches. The bismark is pretty exiting at the top, be ready to belly flop! Make sure you plan a bivy for the Bismark ledge, unbeleavable views of Halfdome and the Valley. Be efficient on cleaning lower outs and traverses, no big pedulums but some devious pitches to clean - especially the seagull and the molar traverse. Get good at highstepping it really helped me with the rivot ladders and getting past some spicier terrain.
Protection
All belays are bomber! We placed a total of 4 pins but didn't have any cam hooks. I think you could do this clean with a few cam hooks and a little trickery. Lots of aluminum dowels. Several fixed head pitches as well. Be prepared to replace heads or blown dowels/rivots. Some dowels have allready been replaced with quarter inch bolts. We had a double set of HB offsets that were incredibly usefull. We had one hybrid alien (green/yellow) and used it on every pitch. A full set of hybrids up to yellow/orange may be nice. We had a #6 friend for the top of the bismark and it worked out pretty well. Several hooking sections - we had a basic selection of 3-4 hooks. 3-4 sets of the smaller cams up to #1 camelot and doubles in the bigger sizes to #3.5 camelot. Single #6 friend. For pins we used a few short LA's and some baby angles. Bring a few bigger angles and a few sawed off angles as well. Also bring a selection of heads and keyhole hangars.
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