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Mescaline Daydream 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,445
Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 15, 2006
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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Me pulling the first pitch roof

Description 

An outstanding route, probably the finest for the grade at Tallulah. It's well protected with some interesting roof moves on great rock. Don't miss Mescaline Daydream!

P1 - Starting under a small roof, move up and left of the roof into a short squeeze chimney that ends under a huge roof. Undercling the roof out left and escape up using a corner at the left end of the roof. Move up the corner to a spacious ledge and belay. 80'
P2 - Climb to an alcove, then move up and right pulling a small roof (crux). Continue up by laybacking and stemming a gorgeous right-facing corner to the top. 120'


Location 

Starts after the trail switchback, but before getting to Digital Delight; just left of Flying Frog. From the bolted anchor, rap on two ropes down the face alongside Flying Frog.


Protection 

Plentiful placements for small to medium pro; sling well to avoid rope drag. Gear anchor at the belay; bolted anchors at the top. Double ropes are recommended; otherwise, trail a second rope for the rap down.



Photos of Mescaline Daydream Slideshow Add Photo
a view from the cave. dave coiling ropes
a view from the cave. dave coiling ropes
P2 of Mescaline Daydream.  Photo by Denmark.
P2 of Mescaline Daydream. Photo by Denmark.
'Chimney' start
'Chimney' start
Top of the second pitch.  I think this is one of the best routes at the gorge.  You can either climb up to the cave directly above the chains and then scurry up to the top of the chimney to the trail or do a rap to the bottom from the chains.  (2 ropes) FOR THIS.
Top of the second pitch. I think this is one of t...
Seconding the excellent P2 of Mescaline Daydream.  Photo by Scott Perkins.
Seconding the excellent P2 of Mescaline Daydream. ...
Gary Latimer extends his placement before making the big move to escape the P1 roof on Mescaline Daydream.
Gary Latimer extends his placement before making t...
Cave entrance to happier hunting grounds at the top. Definitely a must see.
Cave entrance to happier hunting grounds at the to...
Layback on 2nd pitch. Led the route then had to rap and do it again after my partner couldn't remove a stuck piece.
Layback on 2nd pitch. Led the route then had to ra...
Climbers on MD 10/2008
Climbers on MD 10/2008
Comments on Mescaline Daydream Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joey Wolfe
Jan 8, 2007

Great climb, can't wait to do it again! Above chains is a cave that Native Americans believed was the entrance to the "Happy Hunting Ground". Pretty cool. Also, "huge" roof is more intimidating then it is hard.

By Will S
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 29, 2007

The roof at the ground is thin in the back, but will take gear. It's balancy but not hard. Pulling it is easy on huge jugs. Maybe the best trad route of it's grade in GA.

By BHMBen
From: The Deeper South
Mar 29, 2007

Agree on the roof. Walk through the cave at the top...some bouldering and bushwahcking puts you back at the Wilenda(sp.) tower.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 2, 2007

I finally got around to leading MD recently two years after having seconded it, and I'd forgotten how spicy the start is. The roof traverse is definitely not the crux on P1, but it is a lot of fun and well protected too. Really an inspiring route, not to be missed.

By Kit Taylor
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 5, 2009

Good route, roof is a bit mental but rest is very fun. Be sure to get up to the cave, you don't really even need to rope up, its just a stroll up from the top.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
May 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c X

Rest in Peace Josh Robertson.

By Steffany Lowe
From: Athens, Ga
May 1, 2010

RIP Josh

By d e
From: Reno, NV
Apr 11, 2011

Second pitch is worthy of 4 stars, plenty of gear placements on both pitches

By Ezra Ellis
Aug 31, 2013

Is it possible to rap the route with a single 70 Meter Rope, or are two 60s mandatory????

Thanks!!!

By Nathan Burns
From: Dahlonega, GA
Nov 5, 2013

my partner took a massive whipper off of a .5 camalot while trying to pull the pitch two mini roof. 1st pitch was fun but felt about 5.awkward. Super great line with a sick setting!