An outstanding route, probably the finest for the grade at Tallulah. It's well protected with some interesting roof moves on great rock. Don't miss Mescaline Daydream!
P1 - Starting under a small roof, move up and left of the roof into a short squeeze chimney that ends under a huge roof. Undercling the roof out left and escape up using a corner at the left end of the roof. Move up the corner to a spacious ledge and belay. 80'
P2 - Climb to an alcove, then move up and right pulling a small roof (crux). Continue up by laybacking and stemming a gorgeous right-facing corner to the top. 120'
Starts after the trail switchback, but before getting to Digital Delight; just left of Flying Frog. From the bolted anchor, rap on two ropes down the face alongside Flying Frog.
Plentiful placements for small to medium pro; sling well to avoid rope drag. Gear anchor at the belay; bolted anchors at the top. Double ropes are recommended; otherwise, trail a second rope for the rap down.
|By Joey Wolfe|
Jan 8, 2007
Great climb, can't wait to do it again! Above chains is a cave that Native Americans believed was the entrance to the "Happy Hunting Ground". Pretty cool. Also, "huge" roof is more intimidating then it is hard.
|By Will S|
From: Joshua Tree
Mar 29, 2007
The roof at the ground is thin in the back, but will take gear. It's balancy but not hard. Pulling it is easy on huge jugs. Maybe the best trad route of it's grade in GA.
|By Br'er Rabbit|
From: The Deeper South
Mar 29, 2007
Agree on the roof. Walk through the cave at the top...some bouldering and bushwahcking puts you back at the Wilenda(sp.) tower.
From: Decatur, GA
Dec 2, 2007
I finally got around to leading MD recently two years after having seconded it, and I'd forgotten how spicy the start is. The roof traverse is definitely not the crux on P1, but it is a lot of fun and well protected too. Really an inspiring route, not to be missed.
|By Kit Taylor|
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 5, 2009
Good route, roof is a bit mental but rest is very fun. Be sure to get up to the cave, you don't really even need to rope up, its just a stroll up from the top.
From: Red River Gorge
May 1, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X
Rest in Peace Josh Robertson.
|By d e|
From: Reno, NV
Apr 11, 2011
Second pitch is worthy of 4 stars, plenty of gear placements on both pitches
|By Ezra Ellis|
Aug 31, 2013
Is it possible to rap the route with a single 70 Meter Rope, or are two 60s mandatory????
|By Nathan Burns|
From: Dahlonega, GA
Nov 5, 2013
my partner took a massive whipper off of a .5 camalot while trying to pull the pitch two mini roof. 1st pitch was fun but felt about 5.awkward. Super great line with a sick setting!