| Merriam Peak |
 |
| |
Merriam Peak on the left - North Buttress goes up ...
Description The middle of a trio of peaks (Royce, Merriam, Feather) which enclose the west side of the Royce Lakes Cwm - or Hall of the Mountain Gods as I call it. As such the area is unique in the High Sierra, as the peaks immediately west of the official crest are higher than the crest peaks. Not only is there a classic IV 5.10 on the north buttress of this peak, but there has also been significant new route development there in the last few years, by Peter Croft, Lisa Rands and others.
Getting There Take the Pine Creek Road off Highway 395 to the Pine Creek trailhead, by the Tungsten Mill. Hike up an old road switchbacking its way monotonously up to the forest, then round the corner and into the much better scenery at Pine Lake. Head around the north side of the lake and take the trail, past Upper Pine Lake, to Honeymoon Lake, continue to follow the trail to Granite Park – but cut south west when above the lake and head cross-country up and over Royce Pass (11,680ft). Head straight west to a wonderful gravel spot just north of the middle (largest) of Royce Lakes. A spectacular place. Alternate route recommended by Squiddo and more than likely easier: On the way back we took the alternate approach that heads West from the Southern end of the Royce Lakes Basin and travels across some very pleasant terrain to meet the Pine Creek Pass trail right below French lake above Pine Creek pass itself. The second part of this trail was very well cairned out and obviously used/loved/maintained. Perhaps 1 hour max from the end of Royce Lakes to the Pine Lake Pass trail.
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Merriam Peak:
Browse More Classics in Merriam Peak
Featured Route For Merriam Peak
The Flying Buttress 5.11 CA : High Sierra : Merriam Peak
This route takes an improbable and steep line straight up the North Buttress of Merriam. This was originally reported to the AAC as the Croft-Rands Left. After one approach pitch there are four stunning pitches of steep cracks and exciting moves before the route rejoins the North Buttress route.P1. 5.8 45m From the small ledge on top of the toe of Merriam head up a shallow dihedral for 50 feet before stepping right around the corner onto easier ground. Continue up until you can step left onto a... [more] Browse More Classics in CA
Great day... new route?? If anyone has done any FA...
| Merriam Peak's North Buttress highlighted by early...
| Weird evening light on Merriam Peak in some nasty ...
| Early morning light on Merriam Peak in Royce Lakes...
| BETA PHOTO: Some recent inquiries inspired me to post another ...
| BETA PHOTO: The classic triple crack pitch
| BETA PHOTO: Looking back down the 2nd pitch, linked easily wit...
| The third pitch headed up towards the corner
| BETA PHOTO: North Buttress of Merriam Peak
| moonlit Merriam
| | |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Aug 2, 2012
| Great to see so much route activity - well deserved. |
By squiddo From: Mountain View, CA Sep 7, 2012
| Climbed this route last weekend and we had the place to ourselves. Overall a fun route in an incredible area. I do take issue with the description on the approach. We hiked in following the Honeymoon Lake towards Italy pass to the cross country area. Frankly from the moment you step off the trail its a rugged with many rocks/boulders to avoid. ON the way back we took the alternate approach that heads West from the Southern end of the Royce Lakes Basin and travels across some very pleasant terrain to meet the Pine Creek Pass trail right below French lake above Pine Creek pass itself. The second part of this trail was very well cairned out and obviously used/loved/maintained. Perhaps 1 hour max from the end of Royce Lakes to the Pine Lake Pass trail. Of the two approaches, the latter was WAY better and easier. It might be a tad longer but the trail and terrain MORE than makes up for it. |
By Chris Owen Administrator From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake Jan 12, 2013
| Thanks Squiddo, I've posted it in the main description. |
By Some Random Guy From: San Francisco, CA 18 hours ago
| The middle of a trio of peaks (Royce, Merriam, Feather) which enclose the west side of the Royce Lakes Cwm No, it's the southern most peak. Royce is in the middle. Feather is on the northern edge. |
|