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 ADVANCED
Upper Infirmary Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Admission Crack T,TR 
Air Apparent T 
Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress) S,TR 
Cyberchondrial Paranoia S 
Emergency Entrance T,TR 
Haradrim T 
IV League T,TR 
Merit Based Pay T,S 
Mūmakil T 
Panic in the Gray Room S,TR 
Remission S,TR 
Submission T 

Merit Based Pay 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bernard Gillett, 2002
Page Views: 1,278
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on May 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (22)
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Description 

This slab route is on left side of Upper Infirmary Slab (before you get to Western or Left Infirmary) and shares the first three bolts with Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress). At the horizontal break just above the third bolt, traverse slightly right and clip a fourth bolt. The crux (5.6+/5.7-) is gaining the thin crack above the 4th bolt. Continue up the crack, as it opens up to thin-hands, placing gear to the fifth and final bolt. The top shares the same anchor as Community Service (formerly Little Flatiron Left aka West Buttress).

Protection 

5 bolts plus small stoppers or small Aliens down low in the crack to finger to thin hand-sized pro (to a #0.75 Camalot) up higher.

There is a bolted rappel anchor at the top.

Location 

Per Dave Holliday: This route is on the left side of of Upper Infirmary Slab (but not clear over at Left Infirmary Slab, called "Western Infirmary" in the latest guidebook). Rappel about 60-90 feet from a bolted rappel anchor.


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By slim
Administrator
Jan 18, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This one seemed quite a bit easier than Remission, over to the right. Fun little route, worth doing if you are in the area.
By slim
Administrator
Jan 19, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Hmmm, maybe the difficulty was similar, but on this route the bolt is at your head (as opposed to below your feet) when doing the crux? Seemed like there was only one minor 'step-up' sort of move on this route, but Remission was more sustained(?).

I actually didn't think this one was much harder than the 5.6 to the left, other than the single step-up move.
By Bruce Hildenbrand
Jan 19, 2011

This route is already in the database as "Little Flatiron Right". The route was added before the new South Saint Vrain guidebook was out and the actual name of the route was known.
By Rich Kelly
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I agree with Gillett's guidebook rating of 8+ (at the 4th bolt) as it felt at least 2 number grades harder than Community Service. I liked this climb better than Community Service as it had more variety of climbing.
By John Layko Torkleson
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I thought the move to gain the thin crack; as the crux move, was certainly harder then anything on Community Service. If that is what we are basing the grading on, then Merit Based Pay is harder. I felt that Community Service was more sustained for a 5.6 grade. The crimps at the top headwall of Merit are pretty cool.
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
May 25, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I left the wires on the ground and definitely wanted them in the first half of the crack.
More fun than the left route, I think.
By AlanJ
From: Longmont, CO
Aug 4, 2014

The bolts are loose at the top. The spacing in fantastic.