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Mercy Street T 

Mercy Street 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 782
Submitted By: Brian Alexander on Mar 25, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: pitch 2


A two pitch crack that unfortunately seeps water except for after extended dry weather. The second pitch is a classic lieback dihedral comparable to the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall. This route is in the Kevin Mclane book but not in the Squamish Select book. Route begins a bit past Rock On, on the left wall. The first pitch of the Opal is now considered the standard start (5.8).


Double rack to #1 camalot. As many #2 and #3 camalots as you feel like you need. Most mortals will probably want at least 3 x #2 and 3 x #3 camalots. There is about 70' of sustained hands to big hands in a corner. First '50 of the second pitch is mostly fingers to big fingers. A old BD #3.5 fit perfectly before the move to the anchor, and it looked like a new #4 camalot would as well.

Photos of Mercy Street Slideshow Add Photo
White man following up wuzzy AZNs ;(
White man following up wuzzy AZNs ;(

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By Brian Alexander
Mar 25, 2010

Photos are available on Eric and Lucy's Bus Trip
By bearbreeder
Jul 24, 2015

One of the best 10- in squish and a testpiece for the grade

Doubles from fingers to big blue camalot ... An extra big yellow or blue camalot useful depending on which finish you take ... Also eats small-mid sized nuts like a famished squirrel

Two ropes to rappel

By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Aug 3, 2015

This route is AMAZING! Shame that it is not in the Select Guide (it's not in my older version, at least, but maybe it made the cut for the new book).

Despite its intimidating appearance, rests can be found where needed and jams can be interspersed with the laybacking to minimize the pump factor.

Doubles to #2, if you take four or five #3's, you'll find places for all of them. If you only take two #3's, be prepared to do a bit of bumping or backcleaning. An old #3.5 nicely protects the last move to the anchors. (A #4 might work as well, but we didn't carry one with us.)

The 5.8 approach pitch is a pleasant warm up.

One double-rope rap with 60m's gets you to the ground.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Aug 4, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Sherri, we are always on the same tour, this time a couple of days off. This is an awesome line.
I wanted to do this before, always too wet, now is the time, also great one for avoiding the sun.
If you are going to switch back and forth from lay-back to jamming I would say TAPE GLOVES.
Looks to me like Brian added this route without climbing it, who adds a route and says unsure about the gear? Both of above posting covered this. I thought 3) #2 great to have, 2)#3 camalot.
It could also be added :
FA: Kirt Sellers, Bill Noble, 1986.
This is on the Opal wall.
The original start is dirty and pretty scary looking, the Opal 1st pitch is used. 5.8/5.9
We used a tag line as suggested for double rope rap, but a single 70m would work using the 1st pitch anchor for 2 raps.
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 22, 2015
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Mega good.

I was surprised to see how small the first 50' of the second pitch was.... primarily fingers to big fingers.

The top half of 2nd pitch will take as many #2s and #3 camalots that you can throw at it. A old BD #3.5 went in perfectly before the anchor. It looked like a #4 new style camalot would as well.
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