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 ADVANCED
Hell Wall AKA Quarry Wall
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Mercy F**k 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Nathan Kutcher and Chad Berger 2001
Page Views: 2,046
Submitted By: JJ Schlick on Sep 4, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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Unknown climber in July 2005.

Description 

Far right side of the wall is a short line. Start up slabby terrain on good edges to the roof. Climb out and left to the anchors. The move to the anchors is height dependent, but still not a big deal.


Location 

Right side of Hell Wall


Protection 

bolts



Photos of Mercy F**k Slideshow Add Photo
Rhoads right before the crux.
Rhoads right before the crux.
Nic on his nemesis.
Nic on his nemesis.
Mike Lohre.
Mike Lohre.
Flagging off of the nice right handed side pull on Mercy F**k
Flagging off of the nice right handed side pull on...
Comments on Mercy F**k Add Comment
Show which comments
By Chris Hirsch
From: Rapid City, SD
Sep 4, 2006
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I thought this was a very fun 5.10 and a good warm up. There was one undercling right after the slab I think, and it is very thin, I was worried it might break.

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 4, 2007

Fun route but there is some loose rock. I was belaying and my buddy Jay stepped on a football size block up high that let go and exploded in front of me. I stepped back so it wouldn't hit me and if I hadn't been anchored in would have stepped right off the belay platform.

By NiClips
From: Madison, WI
Jun 13, 2007

I think this is the right route...anyway
Is it just me or is the move up left to the last bolt scary?!? I've been on it three different times and had to bail 3X. I have no problem 'til I get out from under the roof. I traverse right then its left undercling, right pinch. The move itself is not hard, (left side mantle, and the holds are good) but the fall looks nasty! I know I could do this on the ground or on TR, but the fall potential to me looks bad; plus the wind hits me every time just as I get out from under the roof. Any suggestions? I really want to bag this.

PS: Rope-Gun wanted ;)

By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jun 15, 2007

NiClips-- yeah it's a heady move. I sat there for a while and looked at it before committing. It's been a couple years since I did that route, but as I recall, you are going for a jug ledge at the top/anchors. I eventually just sacked up and lunged. I will be moving to Madison in a couple weeks and would be happy to meet up with you this summer out at Necedah, esp. if you show me around Gov. Dodge sometime. Chris

By NiClips
From: Madison, WI
Jun 16, 2007

Chris, That sounds good. We're actually going to Gov. Dodge for more bouldering next weekend. Drop me a line here sometime. It's always nice to meet up with new people. ~Nic

By nathankutcher
Nov 4, 2007

This routes name is 'Mercy Fuck'. The original anchor was a bit higher and there was one hard move to get to the clipping hold. Long draws on the anchor would allow you to clip from lower and skip the crux so I threw the 5.10 climbers a bone and put in the lower anchors.

By Andrew R.
From: Fairfax, VA
Jun 3, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun route. With good technique last move isnt really height dependent. Might take a time or two to figure it out though.