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Merchants of Death 

Merchants of Death 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type: Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Pete deLannoy
Page Views: 345
Submitted By: Jon Marek on Sep 14, 2010
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Stampe takes on the Merchants of Death.

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Description 

Cruxes are at the bottom and top of this route where bolts are shared with the line to the right.


Location 

First bolt is high up from a pedestal and protects the initial roof. Follow left bolt line up POCKETS!!


Protection 

Bolts, longer draws and runners might help with rope drag on this wandering line.



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By Brent Larsen
From: Spearfish, SD
Jun 7, 2012
rating: 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Four stars! Not for the brain-dead climber. This is another classic Pete deLannoy rocket science route that requires more advanced thinking and deductive reasoning skills than a final exam in an advanced calculus class. Pumpy! Technical! Pulled it in down in one hang. After a long, hard battle I could have gotten an onsight if I hadn't wussed out at the last bolt. HINT! At the last bolt, head straight up for the anchor. Don't wander left or right just move in one straight line and go for it!