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 ADVANCED
Lower Infirmary Slabs
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acts of Contrition S,TR 
Look Ma No Hands TR 
Mentally Infirm T,S,TR 
Morning Oyster T,TR 
Plague Boys S,TR 
Short But Sweet T 

Mentally Infirm 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: old TR bolts added by Eric Sorenson, Feb. 2008
Page Views: 849
Submitted By: outdooreric on Mar 10, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
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The first lead.

Description 

The crux is passing the first bolt. After you make the move, the climb is pretty easy the rest of the way. Easy to TR as the line is directly below the right set of top-anchor bolts (Plague Boys anchor). Also a safe lead if you bring the optional cam for the top, the best protected climb here.

Two stars is compared to the other climbs on this cliff all of which seem be a bit more runout and indirect.


Location 

This is the most obvious (to me) line on the wall. When you arrive at the cliff bottom, the route rises directly above you. It is located right of "Acts of Contrition" and left of "Plague Boys". It shares an anchor with "Plague Boys".


Protection 

Three bolts and a 1" cam for the overlap at the top. If you are confident, the cam could be optional.



Photos of Mentally Infirm Slideshow Add Photo
Grabbin' some chalk.
Grabbin' some chalk.
Tristana is the queen of the roof!!
Tristana is the queen of the roof!!
Comments on Mentally Infirm Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kat A
From: Bart and Lisa Ville, CO
Apr 6, 2008

I wonder if some small footholds have broken off in the beginning of this route; the rock is also slippery making the first moves feel desperate if you're trying to smear. I was able to on-site Cyberchondrial Paranoia (listed as 5.10d) and Panic in the Grey Room (5.10a) but couldn't pull the beginning moves here. The remainder of this climb is pretty easy.

By outdooreric
From: Lyons, CO
May 27, 2008

It may be a height dependent crux. By moving slightly right of the first bolt, there is a key crimp that allows for a long reach to the big ledge/jug above.

By ShawnT
Oct 2, 2010

This climb is not .10a -- more like .10c/d with a committing 15 feet to the first clip.

By Andrew S.
Jun 23, 2011

Climbed this yesterday. The first bolt is a stretch, look for good feet and the jug. Cruise after that. Also a bit of runout past the third bolt, and the rock has been exfoliating.

By goatboywonder
Apr 23, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

Pretty fun little route. The crux was desperate for me, but you have a bolt right there. I barely managed it by going left and using a high undercling. Short people may want a stick clip for the first bolt. Definitely recommend a 1" cam for the roof.

By Austin Black
Mar 16, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

It was a little bit sketchy clipping the first bolt. I had to cheat and move over to the left of the route where there are some good hand holds. I think that is why it is rated .10a. The rest of the climb felt fairly easy compared to the move needed for the first clip. Pretty safe climbing after that. Bolts looked fairly new. I would agree with the 1" cam for the roof right below the chains. Happy climbing!

By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Jun 15, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R

2 big, loose plates -- looser than last year. These are perfectly placed and shaped to slice your rope. I would avoid this one until they fall.