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 ADVANCED
Mental Block
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndoor Layback 
Cornerlock 
Face Full Of Greens AKA Fist Full Of Greens 
Mental Block Traverse 
Mental Standard 
Mental X 
Pinch Overhang 
Tiger Face 

Mental Block Traverse 

Hueco: V9 Font: 7C

   
Type:  Boulder, 10'
Consensus:  Hueco: V9 Font: 7C [details]
FA: S. Mammen
Page Views: 1,236
Submitted By: Andy Mauk on Mar 24, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

Start over the the left of the boulder under the roof. Make your way right, across corner lock and standard and then finish on pinch overhang.

Protection 

A few pads are always good. Make sure you have pads at the end of the traverse because you end on Pinch Overhang.


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By Adam Holmes
Mar 29, 2004

I think John Sherman did the FA but then the loose block on the north face has since fallen off. That makes the starting moves of the traverse a bit harder. I'm not entirely sure if it's been sent since (it's probably been done). It's a damn fine problem.
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 30, 2004

I think Steve Mammen did the FA.
By Old Fart aka Dave Bohn
Mar 31, 2004

F.A. Steve [Mammen]..... "Back in the day"; when Steve showed it to me; he started from the "Pinch" and traversed left to finish under the N overhang. The crux was getting past the "Standard" route and dropping down onto the incredibly sharp prickly rail that runs across the start of the "Fingerlock".
By Anonymous Coward
Mar 31, 2004

I enjoy working this from the other direction (into the pinch). Turning the corner from corner lock to standard is a real hoot. The final moves falling into the pinch hold and basically doing the pinch overhang after churning through all the previous moves makes this thing friggin' hard! Still a project I enjoy working.

MF
By Anonymous Coward
Apr 15, 2004

I know that Will L. did the FA of the L-R traverse after the block broke off. The L->R way is harder [corrected].
By ac
Apr 15, 2004

How is the R-L way harder? Is the north face section more difficult? Seems like starting on the Pinch and moving left would be easier because it eliminates the crux of doing Pinch Overhang at the end of the traverse. I've tried the R-L version but only went as far as Standard before topping out. That version is awesome.