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 ADVANCED
The Brain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brain Storm T 
Brain Teasers T 
Brain Tweezers S 
Brain Wave T 
Butta S 
Chunky Monkey S 
Journey to the Center of the Brain T 
M.E.N.S.A. S 
Mulatto Serpent S 
Out of Mind T 
Travisty, The S 
Whiny Bugs S 
You Want It, You Got It S 

M.E.N.S.A. 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Joe Crocker, Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 22, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Description 

Stick clip the high first bolt from the top of the boulder. Although this route only has 4 bolts, they are well placed and right where you want them. Start by climbing up the face between the boulder and the wall linking very positive holds all the way to the 2nd bolt. From here, head up and right a bit as the wall gets steeper and then back a bit left to clip the 3rd bolt. From here, you can pick the grade of the route. If you head out left along the really nice holds and traverse back right to the 4th bolt, it's 5.11d. If you head straight up, aiming for a side pull out right and avoiding the large holds way out left, it's 5.12a. From the 4th bolt, it's nothing but jugs to the anchor.

Some folks start the route from on top of the boulder...but this skips a couple nice moves.

Location 

This is the first bolted line on the gray wall perpendicular to the Brain Wall as you pass Brain Tweezers, 5.10b. It's just to the right of the dirty corner, Bearpaw Crack, 5.8.

Protection 

4 bolts, shuts.


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By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 21, 2013

This route feels runout for a sport climb, but do not let that scare you off.
By Chris Whisenhunt
Administrator
From: Fayetteville, WV
May 3, 2013
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

This thing seemed way harder compared to disturbance.