Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Grotto
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
AC Devil Dog S 
Bandito T,TR 
Chicken Ranch Bingo S 
Flight Simulator S 
Go with the Flow T 
Granted T 
Gyro Gearloose T,TR 
Hole in the Wall T,TR 
Journey to Find the Sun S 
Men's Crisis Center T,S 
Moss Critique S 
Prime Directive S 
Rawhide T,TR 
Snake Bite T,TR 
Squealer T,S 
Table Manners T,TR 
Table Manners - Left T,TR 
Three Fingered Jack T 
To Pin or Not To Be T,S 

Men's Crisis Center 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Phil Bone (???)
Page Views: 2,848
Submitted By: Ian G. on Apr 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
hard

Open, with restrictions: private property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mixed gear/bolt route next to Rawhide. Climb the crack until it seams out. Keep slapping up the arete looking for micro feet. Crux is more tricky than hard.

Location 

Right next to Rawhide!

Protection 

Four bolts and cams from purple tcu to .5 camalot will get you up. Don't recall exactly which sizes but you only need 3 or 4 to sew it up.


Photos of Men's Crisis Center Slideshow Add Photo
down low
down low
up higher
up higher
Christina moving through the crux on Men's Crisis Center.  <br /> <br />Photo: James Sullivan
Christina moving through the crux on Men's Crisis ...

Comments on Men's Crisis Center Add Comment
Show which comments
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
May 22, 2009

On TR, this thing seemed WAY easier than 12a. I felt about 11b to me. I should have tried to lead it! The gear looked great and then plenty of bolts. Next time....
By Ian G.
From: PDX, OR
Jul 18, 2009

hmmm....I felt it to be harder than 'Grotto Monkey', but definitely not as hard as 'Funny Man.' Both 12a.

For sure, the crux is short.
By tallmark515
From: San Francisco
Dec 21, 2009

Almost got it clean on lead on my first attempt, but peeled off mid crux. Ended up finally sending it on my second serious attempt at figuring out the crux.

First 30 feet follow a thin finger crack for hands and micro edges on the face for feet (5.10-). Crux begins 30 feet up with a few thin, balancy moves to a powerful bearhug and a few arete slaps. This brings you to a pocket with a small crimp and a sharp rail... I did an insecure lieback up the rail and high-stepped the pocket to a reachy crimp out to the right. A few more balancy but easier moves up the arete and you're at the chains.

Figure out how to clip the bolt before making the crux moves... or accept the consequences if you fall (clean).

Powerful and balancy moves for sure, but I could see this route going at .11+ in some areas. There are definitely harder .12a's out there.
By Pavel Burov
Oct 15, 2013

Good and well protected lead. Does not feel as 5.12 for me, a balancy and techy solid 5.11 for sure. Not too much beta intensive (good for on-sight or flash attempt).

As on Oct 14'th 2013 there is an almost detached (unnecessary) crimp near the top, be sure your belayer is wearing helmet and/or be extra accurate.