Access is via PRIVATE land and may be CLOSED!MORE INFO >>>
The access for Mendoza Canyon is via the good graces of the owner of the King Anvil Ranch you pass through to get to the canyon.
Update from Jeff Mayhew: 3-20-10
Mendoza Canyon access will still be open through King's Anvil Ranch from September 1 through March 1, as usual. The ranch owner, John King, is considering allowing foot access again at the original parking area, (see Approach Map,) from Sept. 1 through Dec. 1. After that he may re-post the No Trespassing sign, but may still allow foot access through the alternate parking area at the north end of the canyon's mouth, (see map.) Legally set traps are throughout the area so the suggestion is to leave the dogs at home. Regardless of this information, please obey all posted signs in the area. Access is still hanging by a thread!
After talking to Game and Fish, State Land Dept., and BLM it is clear that Mr. King has every right to block access at any time... and he is ready to at the drop of a hat. Fortunately, there are only about 15 of us that even go out there, so we mainly have to worry about the random rabble-rousers, (now there's a good name for a climb!)
Thanks for all the support and feel free to contact me. Jeff Mayhew (user JMayhew on this site)
Update from Jeff Mayhew 10-18-10
As of 10/2010 the access along the dirt road leading from the "original parking" at the small corral (see approach map) is still signed "No Trespassing." Please respect that!
The "alternate parking" shown on the map still allows foot access along an old, faint road. This eventually connects to the main dirt road before the pond, but Mr. King had said last spring that access was permitted at that point, as long as people respected the private property. Be sure to remember that fork--it can be tricky to see when you're hiking out tired... and possibly in the dark!
There is still an old, hand written note in the sign-in box stating access to Mendoza is closed. This was in there before Mr. King gave "us" permission to access via this alternate roadway.
Update from Charles Vernon (12.6.10): We ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday, on the way into the canyon. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Mendoza Canyon is a rugged area of granite domes with great climbing and adventure for backcountry climbers. BLM-administered, as part of the Coyote Domes Wilderness area. Routes vary in length from 2 to 8 pitches with most in the higher end of that range. A wide variety of difficulty can be found as well, from fun 5.6 to scary, runout 5.11. There are also aid routes for those wishing to carry more gear.
Some of the aproaches follow fairly well developed trails. Others still require bushwhacking and having your belay gloves handy during the hike might not be a bad idea.
The descent for many of the climbs involves rappelling the route. Most belay stations are more than half a rope length apart so bring 2 ropes. 50 meter lengths are standard for the area. Bolted rappel stations do not usually have chains and the low volume of climbers in the area means the slings are usually pretty old by the time the next climber gets to them. Be sure to bring enough webbing to get down safely. New route development is still active. A traditional style has been maintained and is greatly appreciated in the area.
Getting There
See Approach Map below in "Photos" section.
Take Ajo way west from Tucson to Three Points. Turn South on Hwy 286. Follow 286 for about 8 mi and turn West at the (KING'S ANVIL RANCH AT MP 37.6---NOT KING'S RANCH WHICH COMES FIRST). Follow a good dirt road through the ranch, stopping to sign in and get a permit (free), at the back gate. A State Land permit is officially required to pass thru the area. (www.land.state.az.us/programs/natural/recreation_permit.htm ) ( Continue west (0.8 MILES) through the wash, passing a very small turn off then taking the first, clear road to the right. It is common to miss this turn off. Follow this road west (FOR ~ 5.5 MILES), leading to a fence and the small corral where the original parking area was. (As of 2/2012 this access to the approach road is signed "No Trespassing.") Turn right immediately before this fence on a road that cuts north across the entire mouth of the canyon. Keep an eye out for a left turn after it seems like you've gone too far across the mouth. This road cuts back into the canyon and ends at a gate with foot access only to an old road and trail. This trail eventually leads into the main road and leads you to the dam at the pasture area.
At the end of the road cross the dam of the small reservoir and follow trails to the domes from here.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes):
If you have bailed from other mentally and physically challenging routes in Arizona such as Sensory Desuetude or Coming to Grips, you may actually be able to finish this one. A significant step-up from Elephantiasis, this route has much better rock and more exposure. Even though all the hard moves are well protected, most often by bolts, it does have some spice in not-so-hard runout terrain.A good description of every pitch can be found here:www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page156.h...[more]Browse More Classics in AZ
Photos of Mendoza Canyon (aka Coyote Domes) Slideshow
By Andy Bennett From: Tucson, AZ Mar 12, 2013 CONDITION REPORT
Mendoza Now Open for Business, September 1-April 31 Each Year.
G&F has set up a two-year "access experiment" with the King's Anvil Ranch to allow limited access to the Domes through the Ranch, September 1st-April 31st each year. If you'd like to climb in Mendoza, first read this short document, then call Matt Walton to get the gate code. Don't, I repeat, DO NOT share the code with anyone outside your climbing party. The code will be changed every two weeks. Call well in advance (min 3-4 days) of your trip to give Matt a chance to get back to you.
Understand that this is a very fragile arrangement that took a lot of work on G&F's behalf. The Ranch is ready to close all access if anyone flubs up. Make sure to sign in and out; get the map at the sign-in station and use it to get straight to the new parking area (posted by Jeff Mayhew); camping is not allowed; mind the bees near the dam; please don't bring dogs or a bad attitude-if you see the ranchers, chat 'em up a bit or at least grin and wave.
The dirt roads near the parking area are various and a bit confusing, so I add, here, where one should be shooting for.
The Mendoza Canyon "walls" form a huge C-shape, and when you head in from the Anvil Ranch you will be approaching the mouth of the 'C'. The parking lot area (the end of the "5.5 miles" mentioned in "Getting There") where you have to put on your packs and walk.....is at the more-southern "tip of the C-shape". That is, it's where you finish the penstroke and lift your pen off the paper, if you were drawing a C on paper.
So don't get discouraged if you are getting closer to the domes and are on a seemingly errant dirt road headed straight-south and slowly away from the centre of the canyon. That's what happened to us, and, just about when i was giving up hope, that road turned sharply to the west and ended at the "very obvious rocks" which compose the end of the C. The gate was solidly padlocked shut when we were there two weeks ago, but the 2-mile walk in/out is 'no problema'.
After driving out of the wash, the correct road to take is the second right turn after the second cattle guard coming out of the wash. A bush has some faded pink tape on it at the turn. A mountain bike will make short work of the road portion. The road itself is sandy, but a narrow single-track appears next to the road when the road becomes sandy. Beware of small mesquite branches littering the single track.
Access note: we ran into John King's daughter herding cows yesterday. She was very nice, and we talked to her for a little while. She believes that the missing traps that led to loss of access last year were a result of hikers (climbers? hunters?) whose dogs got caught in the traps, leading to the dog owners taking or destroying the traps to free their dogs.
Regardless of what exactly happened, she made it clear that dogs are not welcome. It sounds as though just heading out there with dogs, without more, could be enough to cause them to rethink access. So please, do not bring dogs to Mendoza!
I have recently learned that the AZGFD is about to sign an agreement with the Anvil Ranch owners to provide for unfettered hiker/climber access into Coyote Domes from September-April every year. This is not a done deal, but sounds like it will be soon.
Regardless of what happens in this deal, we must continue to RESPECT all private property (which does includes part of the access road, gates, animals, traps, etc.) in this area, or we're going to loose access. Drive from point A-B, park at the turnaround, and go about your business. And DON'T BRING YOUR DOGS!
There used to be a note about the new access point on this page but it seems to have disappeared. The map that Jeff Mayhew posted up above shows it correctly. The directions posted about in the description are incorrect as the ranch owners do not want us to use the old access point. If one of the admins reads this, I would be happy to write up a new description to substitute in. In the meantime people should use the map that Jeff posted above. And, be aware that as you drive north (parallel to the canyon), the left turn that you are looking for (the final stretch to where you park) is much farther up than you expect. You may feel as though you've passed the mouth of the canyon and gone too far, but you haven't.
Thanks for all the info here! I am thinking about a trip out here Mid Feb, but I was a little concerned after googling the ranch and reading about what seems to be a big problem they are having with illegal immigrant traffic in the area--I am not local to the southwest and I don't have much experience to draw on regarding this issue-usually, I keep a low profile and follow the golden rule-with good results. Is this something that I should be concerned about? Thanks!
Steve, In 26 years I have never had a problem with encountering illegals in the area. We have helped with trash cleanups on the ranch along some well-used routes out in the foothills strewn with packs, water bottles, and clothes. I have camped at the parking area and in various points in the canyon without ever seeing any illegals. Several friends of mine have done the same without issues. I am not worried about my safety relating to illegals out there but try to remain vigilant. I also try to follow the same rules you do and it seems to be working pretty well so far!
p.s. The written approach info has been updated to reflect the new parking area.
I live in the Sierrita Mtns and wake up every morning looking at Mendoza Canyon and Baboquivari and spend most of my time climbing in that 'hood. If there is ever anything the climbing community can do to assist with clean-ups, b-b-q's, consultations, etc, please spread the word. Access is a serious issue through the KAR, and if those conversations don't go well then we need to lean on the BLM for improved access. The newly approved federal budget appropriated $5.5 million to BLM to "improve access to public lands compromised by private land issues." Personally, I'd rather not have to drive through the MinuteMan Ranch every time I want to climb or hike.
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