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(from Secor, page 240)
This follows the right-hand couloir on the NE face. There is steep snow low in the couloir, followed by a narrow slot choked with chockstones. Follow the couloir to the notch behind the North Peak, then go left to the true summit.
The first chute climber's left of the Dark Star Buttresses. Best climbed in late May / early June.
4-6 ice screws
light alpine rack
By Chris S
Jun 3, 2010
On 30 May, the crux is a 20+ foot step of WI3/4. Bring extra ice screws and WI crampons to make it through, and get on the route before the upper slopes receive direct sunlight. Rarely done but deserves a lot more attention! Every bit as good as the V-notch - perhaps better!