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South Canyon Wall
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Better a Hasbeen Than a Wannabe S 
Getting The Bob S 
Golden Showers S,TR 
Hobo Testes S 
Men Without Egos S 
Spermatose S,TR 

Men Without Egos 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Brent Kertzman and Lane Smith, Nov 1990
Page Views: 1,153
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 17, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Leading Men Without Egos, my buddy who took the pi...

Description 

To access this route drive south on Falling Rock Rd. past the parking for the North Wall. Continue into canyon and up the otherside. At the top of the hill a blocked road will appear on the left. Park here then hike old road to east. Upon reaching the top of the South Wall continue walking east-northeast along a trail. Aim for the northeast rim of the canyon to the north. Upon reaching the northeast corner of the rim locate a coulair that is north facing and descend. After exiting the coulair, move right (eastward) along the base of the cliff. The wall this route is on will appear around the corner from the coulair. There are three routes on this buttress. Men Without Egos is the center route. Another bolt was added to the route this spring by Brent K. It is wise to stick-clip the first bolt.


Protection 

Six Bolts



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By Brad Boner
May 20, 2003

In my opinion, this is by far the best route on the South Canyon Wall. A must-do at Falling Rock.

By Eric Krantz
From: Black Hills
Feb 21, 2004

I guess I can't follow directions. I went to the end of the blocked old road where kids used to party and went left (east). I walked past the gully (that takes you to the bottom) and walked another 50 meters(?) east along the top. I came to several bolts on top of this arete-like spire-like thing that's almost not attached to the main wall, cold shuts on the north, hangers on the south, and hangers on top above the cold-shuts. Can anyone tell me where I was? Where is Men w/o Egos from these hangers? Also there are many other hangers nearby - anyone know what these are?

By Brad Boner
Feb 22, 2004

Men w/o Egos and Better a Has-been than a Wannabe are both on a north-facing cliff, across the canyon of the more popular area of Falling Rock (sounds like you were in the right area)... they are very close to the end of the peninsula... Men w/o Egos can be identified by spotting the tree that grows at the cliff edge on north side of the outcropping, and the hangers are directly below the tree... once at the base of the route and facing the cliff, Better a Has-been than a Wannabe is to the left, and the route left of that has some wacky Spanish name, i think, and a rating of around 11b...

By Anonymous Coward
Dec 23, 2005

From an earlier Brad Boner post "and the route left of that has some wacky Spanish name, i think, and a rating of around 11b..." Actually the wacky named route left "Ne Soyez Pas Un Poule Mouilee" is loosely translated in Frenach as "Don't Be A Chicken".