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One of the newer and most amazing routes in Squamish. 2 incredible hanging corners await, both checking in at solid 5.12.
p1 and 2: As for Freeway.
p3: Short 5.10 pitch straight off of the daylight crack anchors. Belay on comfy ledge off of bolts. 12m.
p4: "The Science Project" 12b/c 20m. Climb a boulder problem protected by 3 bolts into the ooze. Needs to be cleaned once a year, but way worth it. The wet climbing is 5.10, but you are pumped. Hang out and rest and launch into the tips corner. Usually sports a few fixed wires as it is a tough pitch!
p5: "The Thumb Ratchet Pitch" 12c 20m. One of the best pitches of its grade in Squamish? To be debated, but up there for sure. Launch straight up off the belay. Clip a few bolts, go for it, whip out of the thumb ratchet move. Bring 2 or 3 blue tcu size pieces, 1 or 2 purple tcu's, and a few other pieces up to a 1 camalot. Many people rap from here.
p6: "The Link Pitch" 12b 10m. Go up the corner until you can go right and clip the first of 3 bolts. Face climb your ass off and traverse right to the next belay.
p7 and p8: 2 5.10 pitches take you left of the freeway roof to eventually join up with the express lane finish of freeway (11- 2 more pitches)
Do the first 2 pitches of Freeway, the 11a 'rear ender' and the 'daylight' crack (usually done as 1 55m pitch). Instead of going right as for freeway, continue straight up to the 'Heavy Hitter's Ledge" via a 12m 5.10 pitch. Belay at the chains and keep going up! You can rap the route with 2 ropes after the next two crux pitches or continue to the top via Freeway and walk off.
A few small wires and RPs, double set of cams from purple tcu to .75 camalot, with one each #1, 2 and 3 camalot, and maybe an extra blue TCU sized piece. All anchors are bolted. About 10 quickdraws and 2 long slings will see you through
|By C Miller|
Sep 10, 2007
There's a nice photo of this route on the cover of Gripped Magazine (volume 9, issue 4 - 08/09 2007).
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Dec 27, 2008
Some more photos from Evan's blog: link